A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
The Governor’s first question to me was worth recording. He was a little
nervous at first, and for a minute there was an awkward silence, which
his Excellency broke by asking, “Did you fight in the Crimea?” I replied
that I was not born until some ten years after that war was over.
However, I found the question had a purpose, for on the Governor’s breast
hung the English Crimean medal, which he handed me to examine with great
pride. After this episode conversation was carried on more easily, and
finally I obtained his Excellency’s permission to continue residing in
the upper chamber of the _café_ until I should depart. Very different
were the Government offices here from the gorgeous apartments of the
Governor-General at Sanaa. Here there was only a small bare room with a
few chairs, none of which were in very good repair. An outside staircase
of rickety steps leads to the first storey of the building, where the
principal offices appear to be situated, the lower portion serving as
a store. A constant flow of gaudy officers and ill-clothed soldiers
passed and repassed. I had several interviews with the Governor during my
stay of a week in Hodaidah, and on every occasion found him polite and
amiable, although he refused to allow me to continue my journey by land,
as I had hoped to have done, _viâ_ Beit el-Fakih, Zebeed, and Hais.
On my return to my quarters I found a couple of Turkish soldiers calmly
seated in my room, one of them on my bed, and smoking my cigarettes.
Although I was prepared to be watched, I was not at all inclined to put
up with this intrusion, and with the aid of Abdurrahman, Saïd, and a
boot, soon put them to flight. I at once returned to the Governor to
explain the matter to him, and on my way to his apartment was accosted
in the most polite manner by an officer, who begged me not to report the
matter, saying that if I liked to pay him a couple of dollars he would
see that the guard was removed. But what with annoyance and fever, I was
not in a mood to pay anybody anything, so went straight to his Excellency
and told my story. The old man and his officers burst into fits of
laughter, explaining to me that the guard had only been put there for
me to pay something for their removal, and that the whole thing was a
“plant.” I begged him to send for the officer who wanted _bakshish_, and
speak to him, so that I should not be put to the same annoyance again,
and this he willingly did. Nevertheless, in spite of the fact that I
was left in tolerable peace, I soon found that my every movement was
watched, but never interfered with. This last was no doubt owing partly
to the good offices of one who showed me great kindness and hospitality
in Hodaidah, Dr Ahmed, a native of India, who ably represents H.B.M.
Government as Vice-Consul there. I cannot speak highly enough of my
appreciation of his and his English wife’s many acts of kindness toward
me; and although, owing to ill health, my recollections of Hodaidah are
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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