A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
The city, which contains some fifty thousand inhabitants, lies in a
wide level valley. It takes the form of a triangle, the eastern point
consisting of a large fortress, dominating the town, and built upon the
lowest spur of Jibel Negoum, a mountain which rises immediately outside
the city walls. The town is divided into three distinct quarters, each
walled, and the whole surrounded by one continuous wall. They are
respectively the city proper, in which are the Government buildings,
the huge bazaars, and the residence of the Arabs and Turks; the Jews’
quarter; and Bir el-Azab, where are gardens and villas belonging to the
richer Turks and Arabs. The city was once of great wealth and prosperity,
and to-day remains one of the most nourishing cities of Arabia. The
shops are well supplied with European goods, and a large manufacture of
silk, jewellery, and arms is carried on there. The quarter in which the
Government buildings are situated presents almost a European appearance,
with its large Turkish shops, its _cafés_, and its open places, on one of
which, in front of the Governor-General’s official residence, a military
band discourses anything but sweet music of an afternoon.
But the city, as the writer saw it after its recapture by the Turks,
presented a very different spectacle from what it must have done when,
surrounded on all sides by a horde of Arabs, a continual shower of
bullets was being poured into its streets from the Arab position on Jibel
Negoum, which completely dominated the place. Fortunately for those
besieged, the rebels possessed no artillery, otherwise their efforts
would no doubt have proved successful in gaining an entrance into the
town. However, the fire poured into the city was sufficiently harassing
to render it expedient to drive the Arabs from their position above the
town, and several unsuccessful sorties were made. At length, mustering
all the troops at his command, the pasha made a final sortie about the
middle of November. Maintaining a steady fire from the fort upon the
Arab position, the troops issued from the southern gate, and wheeling
to the left after a gallant attack—for the Arabs were in overwhelming
numbers—drove the rebels back. They retreated on Dar es-salaam, a small
village a few miles outside the walls of Sanaa, consisting of perhaps a
dozen or so stone houses surrounded by a wall. Bringing up some small
field-guns, the artillery opened fire upon the rebels, completely
destroying the place and rendering a precipitate retreat of the Arabs
necessary, which they are said to have accomplished in the wildest
disorder, leaving, as I was informed, several thousand dead upon the
field. But the victory was not altogether a blessing, for there being
no one to bury the Arab dead, the inhabitants of the city suffered from
violent disease, while the stench of the decaying bodies is said to have
been terrible. Retiring once more within the precincts of the city, the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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