A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
The steamer is quickly surrounded. A few steam-launches, heavily
awninged, screech their whistles; while a crowd of small boats
manned by coal-black Somali boys, each striving to be the first upon
the scene, crowd upon us. They are boatmen, divers, and sellers of
curiosities—smart, bright little fellows, more than half nude, and as
black as coal, many with their hair left long like the cords of a Russian
poodle. Such a screaming and a yelling! Such a diving after small coins!
Such a display of leopard-skins, antelope-horns, especially those of the
lovely oryx, and ostrich-feathers, products of the opposite coast! A few
dull austere Indians and Cingalese display embroideries and table-cloths,
but the heat seems to depress them, just as it does the buyers.
[Illustration: TOMB AND MOSQUE OF SHEIKH OTHMAN, NEAR ADEN.]
It is a wonderful sight to watch the divers, balanced on the gunwales of
the boats, their hands above their heads, watching eagerly for the tiny
splash of a small coin, then breaking the water into a series of dancing
circles as their dusky bodies disappear into the transparent blue. One
can see them too under water, turning like fishes in search of the slowly
sinking money. When the excitement had worn off, and those passengers who
cared to brave the sun’s terrific rays by taking a short run ashore had
left, I hailed a boy, who, with the aid of Abdurrahman, my ever-faithful
Arab servant from Morocco, stowed my luggage into the boat. Then I said
good-bye to the P. and O. steamer, and was rowed ashore.
[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF ADEN AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
To Illustrate Mr. W. B. Harris’ “A Journey through the Yemen”
W. & A. K. Johnston. Edinburgh & London.]
At some steps leading to a galvanised-iron-roofed landing-place I stepped
ashore. What a scene of desolation and dreariness Aden presents to the
new-comer! and how soon one gets to like the place in spite of it all! A
background of dreary blackish rock, a sandy road, half-a-dozen rickety
_gharies_ under the shelter of a hideous iron-roofing, with sleepy
little ponies and still more sleepy Somali drivers; a whitewashed domed
saint’s tomb, with an apology for a garden on each side, in which a few
weary-looking plants were trying to appear green under a thick coating of
dust and a sweltering sun; a long crescent of badly built houses, with
the exception of the handsome Aden Bank buildings, faced by an expanse of
sand and black palings,—and that is Steamer Point, as one first sees it.
But as the sun sinks low a figure or two appear, and toward sunset the
place wears a gay and flourishing appearance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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