A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
Driving from Steamer Point to Aden, a distance of some four or five
miles, is by no means an exciting process, although one’s nerves are kept
in constant tension by the extraordinary evolutions of the cab, and the
thought that at any moment it may fall to pieces—ditto the pony, which a
Somali jehu on the box causes by aid of his whip to keep up to a gallop.
Through the pass of Hedfaf, along the flat that leads to the village
of Maala—its harbour crowded with native craft, while Arab sailors sit
mending the sails on the beach—away up the winding road to the Main Pass,
a zigzag cutting between high walls of rock, then down again, until,
issuing from the tunnel-like pass, one sees the town of Aden before one’s
eyes—a great white block, broken up by the streets that run at right
angles to one another, and disfigured by hideous barracks and Government
offices. The plain in which the town lies, being in reality the floor of
the crater, is almost a circle, from which torn and ragged spurs of rock
rise on all sides, except where through a gap one can catch a glimpse of
the sea and Seerah island, until they join in the peaks of Sham-sham and
its neighbours. There is but little to attract the eye about the desolate
prospect, except the relief afforded by the clean white town. Away on one
of the hill-tops stands a tower. Like the Towers of Silence at Bombay,
it serves as the scene of the strange funeral rites of the Parsees; and
here the birds of prey congregate to devour the corpse, too impure to
defile fire or earth or water.
But the sight of all Aden is the tanks. I remember long before I
visited Aden listening one evening during a long sea-voyage to an old
ship’s-carpenter discoursing on the Bible. “The Garden of Eden!” he said;
“why, of course it’s true! It’s Aden to-day, and there’s the tanks to
prove it. I seed ’em with my own eyes.” However, in spite of the dear
old man’s religious beliefs being strengthened by having seen the famous
Aden tanks, I fear they can claim no such antiquity as that with which
he connected them. In all probability these great reservoirs were built
at the time of the second Persian invasion, in the seventh century A.D.
In this case the tanks at Aden are much later in date than many of those
existing in Southern Arabia, of which the most important was, without
doubt, the great dam of Mareb, or Sheba as we know it. Although I was not
fortunate enough in my travels in the Yemen to be able to reach the ruins
of this extraordinary work, I think that a few words upon the subject may
not be out of place here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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