A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
as any but natives, to so great an extent do they assimilate themselves
to the customs and manners of the country. I knew, then, that did I
attempt to reach Sanaa from Hodaidah, and should I fail, as most probably
would be the case, my chance of proceeding into the country from any
other quarter would be practically at an end. It was for this reason that
I decided to make Aden my starting-point; and should I be unfortunate
in my journey thence, to fall back as a last hope upon Hodaidah. This,
happily, I was not obliged to do; for my plans, as will be seen, were
successful.
But there were several other matters to be thought over besides this.
Granting that I could reach the capital of the Yemen from Aden, how could
I best do so with tolerable safety? Here my experiences in Morocco stood
me in good stead. My first idea had been to purchase my camels, but on
second thoughts I decided not to do so. Not only would my camels tempt
the tribes through whose lands I would have to pass to robbery, but even
the native Arabs I might hire as guides to go with me might not prove
indisposed to relieve me of two or three valuable beasts of burden. It
would be safer far, I argued, to hire my beasts, as in that case it
would be to the advantage of my men to see that not only I myself but
also my baggage-animals would arrive at their destination in safety.
How, then, to find the right men and animals without spreading the fact
all over the bazaars that a mad Englishman wanted to go to Sanaa, in
spite of dangers and the rebellion? I had recourse to Messrs Cowasjee,
Dinshaw, & Co., a great house of Parsee merchants, and through them was
put into communication with an Arab trader. This gentleman I called upon,
and found exceedingly pleasant; and more than that, I found that he
understood perfectly my North-African Arabic, and that his educated Yemen
dialect was comprehensible to myself. I unfolded to him, over coffee, my
plans, with which he seemed not a little amused. He told me in return to
leave everything to him, and to appear again at his house the following
afternoon. This I did, and after coffee and preliminary remarks he
introduced to me a strange character, an Arab of the mountains of Yemen,
a man of something under forty years of age, framed like an Apollo, lithe
and beautiful. I must give a few words of description of this strange
creature. Tall, lithe, and exquisitely built, his skin of dull copper
hue showed off the perfect moulding of his limbs. Over his shoulders on
either side hung loose black wavy curls, standing out like the wigs of
the old Egyptians. Except for a loin-cloth of native indigo workmanship,
and a small blue turban, almost lost in the spreading masses of raven
hair that burst from beneath its folds, he was naked. Here and there his
flesh had taken the dye from his blue raiment, giving it a strange blue
tint. Tucked into his girdle was a dagger—_jambiya_—of exquisite Yemen
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