Sympathy took the form of deeds and a crowd at once went round in
boats with a museum of implements. Soon they had her off, and our
plucky schooner took her in tow all the three hundred miles to the
nearest dry-dock at St. John's.
Meanwhile Sir Thomas Roddick, of Montreal, an old Newfoundlander, had
presented us with a splendid twenty-foot jolly-boat, rigged with
lug-sail and centre-boom. In this I cruised north to Eskimo Bay,
harbouring at nights if possible, getting a local pilot when I could,
and once being taken bodily on board, craft and all, by a big friendly
fishing schooner. It proved a most profitable summer. I was so
dependent on the settlers and fishermen for food and hospitality that
I learned to know them as would otherwise have been impossible. Far
the best road to a seaman's heart is to let him do something for you.
Our impressions of a landscape, like our estimates of character, all
depend on our viewpoint. Fresh from the more momentous problems of
great cities, the interests and misunderstandings of small isolated
places bias the mind and make one censorious and resentful. But from
the position of a tight corner, that of needing help and hospitality
from entire strangers, one learns how large are the hearts and homes
of those who live next to Nature. If I knew the Labrador people before
(and among such I include the Hudson Bay traders and the Newfoundland
fishermen), that summer made me love them. I could not help feeling
how much more they gladly and freely did for me than I should have
dreamed of doing for them had they come along to my house in London. I
have sailed the seas in ocean greyhounds and in floating palaces and
in steam yachts, but better than any other I love to dwell on the
memories of that summer, cruising the Labrador in a twenty-footer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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