The mouth of Loch Foyle, one of the most beautiful bays in Ireland,
gave us a fine return in fish. Especially I remember the magnificent
turbot which we took off the wild shore between the frowning basalt
cliffs of the Giant's Causeway, and the rough headlands of Loch
Swilly. We sold our fish in the historic town of Londonderry, where we
saw the old gun Mons Meg, which once so successfully roared for King
William, still in its place on the old battlements. By a packet
steamer plying to Glasgow, we despatched some of the catch to that
greedy market. At Loch Foyle there is a good expanse of sandy and mud
bottom which nurses quite a harvest of the sea, though--oddly
enough--close by off Rathlin Island is the only water over one hundred
fathoms deep until the Atlantic Basin is reached. The Irish Sea like
the North Sea is all shallow water. Crossing to the Isle of Man, we
delayed there only a short while, for those grounds are well known to
the Fleetwood trawlers, who supply so much fish to the dense
population of North Central England. We found little opportunity of
trawling off the west of Scotland, the ocean's bottom being in no way
suited to it. On reaching the Western Hebrides, however, we were once
more among many old friends. From Stornaway on the Isle of Lewis alone
some nine hundred drifters were pursuing the retreating armies of
herring.
The German hordes have taught us to think of life in large numbers,
but were the herring to elect a Kaiser, he would dominate in reality
an absolutely indestructible host. For hundreds of years fishermen of
all countries have without cessation been pursuing these friends of
mankind. For centuries these inexhaustible hordes have followed their
long pathways of the sea, swimming by some strange instinct always
more or less over the same courses--ever with their tireless enemies,
both in and out of the water, hot foot on their tracks. Sharks,
dog-fish, wolf-fish, cod, and every fish large enough to swallow them,
gulls, divers, auks, and almost every bird of the air, to say nothing
of the nets set now from steam-propelled ships, might well threaten
their speedy extermination. This is especially true when we remember
that even their eggs are preyed upon in almost incalculable bulk as
soon as they are deposited. But phoenix-like they continue to reappear
in such vast quantities that they are still the cheapest food on the
market. Such huge numbers are caught at one time that they have now
and again to be used for fertilizer, or dumped overboard into the sea.
The great bay of Stornaway Harbour was so deeply covered in oil from
the fish while we lay there, that the sailing boats raced to and fro
before fine breezes and yet the wind could not even ripple the
surface of the sea, as if at last millennial conditions had
materialized. Many times we saw nets which had caught such quantities
of fish at once that they had sunk to the bottom. They were only
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