I had expected to spend the greater part of our time cruising among
the fishing schooners out of sight of land on the big Banks as we did
in the North Sea; but I was advised that owing to fog and isolation,
each vessel working separately and bringing its own catch to market,
it would be a much more profitable outlay of time, if we were to
follow the large fleet of over one hundred schooners, with some thirty
thousand fishermen, women, and children which had just sailed North
for summer work along the coast of Labrador. To better aid us the
Government provided a pilot free of expense, and their splendid
Superintendent of Fisheries, Mr. Adolph Nielsen, also accepted the
invitation to accompany us, to make our experiment more exhaustive and
valuable by a special scientific inquiry into the habits and manner of
the fish as well as of the fishermen. Naturally a good deal of delay
had occurred owing to the unusual congestion of business which needed
immediate attention and the unfortunate temporary lack of facilities;
but we got under way at last, and sailing "down North" some four
hundred miles and well outside the land, eventually ran in on a
parallel and made the Labrador coast on the 4th of August.
The exhilarating memory of that day is one which will die only when we
do. A glorious sun shone over an oily ocean of cerulean blue, over a
hundred towering icebergs of every fantastic shape, and flashing all
of the colours of the rainbow from their gleaming pinnacles as they
rolled on the long and lazy swell. Birds familiar and strange left the
dense shoals of rippling fish, over which great flocks were hovering
and quarrelling in noisy enjoyment, to wave us welcome as they swept
in joyous circles overhead.
CHAPTER VI
THE LURE OF THE LABRADOR
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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