England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
After Burford our road led us up a valley of clear streams and green
pastures, bounded ahead by a long line of blue and undulating hills;
we crossed one or two grey old stone bridges, so narrow that two
vehicles could not pass over them at the same time. Perhaps this slight
impediment to travel does not greatly trouble people in these parts,
for we met little traffic on the way, only a cart for some miles, and a
solitary tramp trudging along disconsolately. We had the country almost
to ourselves until we came in sight of the grey old town of Ludlow, one
of the most interesting and picturesque towns in England; but to see
Ludlow at its best it needs to be approached, as we approached it, from
the south, for to the north a collection of ugly modern brick houses
has unhappily sprung up, and these are sadly out of harmony with the
rest of the age-mellowed buildings. Before the railway was invented was
the golden age of pleasure travel--for those who had money in their
purses. Then Buggins the builder had done comparatively little harm in
the matter of the uglification of the countryside; there was pleasure
in posting across country in those picturesque, motorless days.
Coming to it from the south, the castle-crowned town of Ludlow greets
the traveller with a genuine flavour of antiquity. He enters it, as
did the traveller of centuries ago, through a narrow, arched, stone
gateway with round flanking towers. The gateway stands "massive and
grim across the street," a graphic reminder of the feudal days when
Ludlow was surrounded by fortified walls, broken and ruined now, but
they can still be traced encircling the town. Then as we drove on we
had a glimpse of the famous "Feathers Inn," with its nodding gables,
as fine and as well-preserved a specimen of a half-timber hostelry as
one may hope to look upon. The interior of this ancient house with its
elaborately carved chimney-pieces and enriched plastered ceilings is
even more interesting and picturesque than the exterior, and there are
many other quaint and beautiful old houses in the town, notably the
Reader's House. I should like to unearth the story of the "Feathers,"
for it looks like an inn with a storied past, else why those stately
chambers? But though, on my return home, I searched for this in many
books, I could discover nothing certain about it. Probably it was
originally the home of some notable personage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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