England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Then one of the fishermen came in, but he never broached the subject
of fishing; he appeared to take more interest in my tour than in his
sport. I left the subject of conversation to him. He asked me where I
had come from that day, and when I told him, I was interested to learn
that he too was a well-seasoned road traveller who, like myself, knew
his roads better than his Bradshaw, and that he considered the drive
from Newton to Machynlleth one of the most beautiful in the kingdom,
"because it is so changeful and so continuously pleasant." Truly it
has no presiding peak, no particular waterfall, no old castle, no
special _coup d'oeil_, no shrine for the tourist to worship at,
nothing that you feel bound to admire whether in the humour or no,
so you can quietly jog on your way without fatigue of mind or eye,
without a thought of missing this or that you ought to see and friends
expect you to see and perhaps praise. Where all is interesting there
is no special assertive point of interest, and for one I prefer my
scenic meal served thus. I certainly can commend that drive, and during
the whole length of it I met no other car, so I imagine it is not a
much-travelled road, unless it were the chance of circumstance that no
motorists were in evidence then. It is an easy road, too, with only one
really steep hill on all the way from Newton to Aberdovey.
Machynlleth is a cheerful town, which all Welsh towns are not; its wide
main street is lined with trees, and what adds to the pleasantness of
the place is its fortunate position in the sheltered Dovey valley from
which rise wooded hills around; after Conway I think it is the cleanest
and pleasantest town in Wales. Though it possesses no castle to centre
its interest, or church of note, still it boasts of some old buildings
that have the charm of character. One very ancient and historic
building is the "Royal House," though its plastered front effectually
disguises its ancientness, nor is there anything about it to suggest
its past importance, but there it was in 1402 that Owen Glyndwr was
crowned King of Wales, and there he held his Parliament, and within its
walls his life was attempted by one David Gam. In this very house, too,
Charles I. slept a night on his way to Chester. I was informed that the
walls of the building were in parts of Roman masonry, so old is it, but
as the walls are plastered over I had to take this statement on faith.
Still it is within the bounds of probability, for the Romans had a
fortified station at Machynlleth "to keep the troublesome mountaineers
in order."
There is also another house, with some fine carving within, known as
the "Mayor's House," on which the inhabitants set much store, though I
saw little in it; it is a mildly picturesque structure of half-timber,
with two large dormer-windows above, a building that strikes an odd
note in a land of stone. On the front of it boldly carved in oak is the
following enlightening inscription--
1628. I. OWEN. PVQHIOVXOR.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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