England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Then we left the hills behind and came down into a green and fertile
valley and to "Cann Office Inn"--why so curiously called I cannot say.
"What's in a name?" says Shakespeare. Now I think there is much in a
name; Aberdovey has a pleasant sound, but Cann Office is not a name
suggestive of rural pleasantness, yet "Cann Office Inn" is a charming,
old-fashioned, comfortable-looking wayside hostelry, ivy-covered to
boot, and it boasts a restful garden; moreover, it is set in the heart
of a lovely country far from the sight and sound of the fussy railway,
though to be reached by the ubiquitous motor-car, for where goes the
road there comes the car. Truly I wish the car was not so ubiquitous;
indeed, oftentimes I find myself looking longingly and selfishly back
to the desirable old days when the motor-car was not, when I travelled
either afoot or by horses, slowly perhaps but contentedly enough on
the then little-travelled, peaceful country roads, and took my ease at
quiet rural inns, feeling fairly certain of accommodation and even of
the best room of the house; now I do not feel so certain of either,
nor of the old-time quiet--inns that in those days seemed so remote,
and I delighted to give myself up to the delusion of their remoteness.
How pleasantly those past wanderings linger in my memory, when in the
country you were sure of finding peace and often solitude away from
the railway! There is no getting away from the car or the sound of its
horn. But vain is the cry of Backward Ho!
"Cann Office Inn" was a famous hostelry in the good old coaching
and posting era, so I have heard, and that there our hard-drinking
ancestors made right merry over their glasses--
In the past Georgian day
When men were less inclined to say
That time is gold, and overlay
With toil their pleasure.
Nor troubled they about the morrow--or the gout.
Unlike many other coaching inns, Cann Office never seems to have fallen
upon evil days, for when it lost its travelling and posting custom,
anglers, just in the nick of time, happily discovered it, and ever
since have haunted the troutful rivers and streams around. One angler
indeed said to me, "If you can't catch fish here, you won't catch them
anywhere." By my map I see that the rivers Banwy, Gam, and Twrch meet
close at hand, and many a minor stream runs near by. "Twrch"--there is
a fine specimen of a Welsh name, without a vowel in it, for a Saxon
to pronounce! Truly it is short, but there are others that are long,
and still have not a helpful vowel in all their astonishing array of
consonants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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