England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
I was first shown the Red Castle, built in the reign of King Henry
III., of which castle, except some broken masonry, a tall, round keep,
standing isolated and stately on a crag, alone remains. "How like one
of Salvator Rosa's pictures!" I could not help exclaiming to myself;
and really it is. The far view from this tower over a vast extent of
peaceful, pastoral, and wooded country to the stormy mountains of
Wales, so rugged of outline and contrasting, is wonderfully fine and
space-expressing. There was a bigness about it, looking over "the sweep
of endless woods," that pleased me, a green spaciousness that was
splendid. I forget now how many feet high the guide said the top of the
tower on its crag was from the ground; but one had to crane one's neck
to see it from below, and this gave one the impression of commanding
height whatever its height might be.
Next we went under a wide-arched rock at the end of a ravine, and began
to climb the crags on the opposite side by a narrow winding footpath
with steps cut here and there in the steepest parts; so we reached a
wonderful series of grottos, consisting of arched chambers in the solid
rock, with many roughly-hewn pillars. These grottos were lined with
shells and spas: the guide gave me the history of them, but I have
forgotten it; some one, however, cut them out of the rock, and some
ladies decorated them in the manner described. Then I was conducted
on to the top of the crag, opposite to which is the Raven's Cliff;
from this point the view over the park and rocks is very striking, the
rough grey rocks peeping out here and there from the sea of soft green
foliage, forming a telling combination and contrast. Then we descended,
only to ascend again up a steep and stepped path to the Hermitage, a
cavern in the cliff side, over the entrance to which is inscribed--
Procul, O procul este, profani.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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