England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Romans wisely favoured the high ground in preference to the low for
their roads, which to keep dry were carefully trenched on either side,
but they always went straight ahead to their destination, excepting
when the gradient proved too severe or they had to round a hill, but
after such divergence straight ahead they went again; one cannot but
admire the purposefulness of them. Watling Street has now been reopened
and reconnected from Daventry to Shrewsbury, a distance of eighty-three
miles; and to be a little previous, from close to Boscobel on to
Daventry we followed the ancient street on our homeward run--excepting
for a diversion to Uttoxeter at the Lichfield turn, rejoining it at
Atherstone, missing but about fourteen miles of its length between the
point above Boscobel and Daventry--and a very pleasant rural road we
found it, delightful for its absence of towns and even villages; indeed
it took us for miles and miles right through a thoroughly old-world
sparsely peopled land. So we followed the footsteps of the Roman
legions. The foundation of most of the street, in spite of years of
neglect, is as firm to-day as when the ancient Romans made it, for they
built for centuries. Our modern road-builders might well take a hint
from those clever old engineers. There was no scamped work in those
benighted ages, for scamped work meant death--not a fortune.
But to return to Uriconium. To show the size of the ancient city,
its walls, still traceable, are over three miles in circumference,
enclosing now open fields and meadows; in these, I was told, the plough
occasionally turns up portions of mosaic pavement, bits of pottery,
tiles, and other relics. I entered what now remains of the city above
ground by a locked gate and wandered over its grass-grown streets, or
at least a very small portion of them, and amongst the fragments of
its time-worn walls that are still standing. Wild roses, brambles,
nettles, and docks were growing everywhere disorderly; ivy, moss, and
lichen were creeping over its stones at will. Some of the foundations
of the buildings have been uncovered and laid bare, but Nature is busy
at work covering them up again with many a wild growing thing. Little
enough remains, in truth, to reveal the former glory of Uriconium; the
chief wall standing, built of squared stones, varied by courses of thin
red tiles, is presumably that of the basilica; adjoining this are the
baths, the plan of which can be roughly made out, the furnace chambers
may be traced, and a number of small pillars constructed of thin bricks
reveal the hypocausts or heating arrangements. The public baths are the
best preserved parts of the city that have been unearthed, and show the
extent of civilisation to which the Romans in England had attained. I
was glad to have seen Uriconium; it made me respect the civilisation of
our early conquerors. I was impressed with the picture that I recovered
to myself of the refined life the Romans led in their British colony
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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