England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Approaching the abbey ruins by the footpath, they made an effective and
pathetic picture lightened and warmed by the soft sunshine, with the
green woods behind them, the ruins so old and wan, and the woods so
freshly green. The chief feature of the abbey is its bold and beautiful
late Norman west doorway, and from this wide portal the whole of the
church can be seen at a glance, so that one can judge the extent of it,
and a glorious and stately fane it must have been when the last abbot
in 1538 meekly handed it over to the minions of Henry VIII., "with all
its manors, lordships, messuages, gardens, meadows, feedings, pastures,
woods, lands, and tenements." A rare and rich morsel for that greedy
monarch.
Lilleshall Abbey has been picturesquely ruined, yet I wish it had been
a little less ruined, for one misses the graceful tracery that once
adorned its now vacant windows; it is the tracery of their windows
that gives such an added charm to Tintern and Melrose. The abbey was
fortified and held for the king in the Civil Wars, and was bombarded
by Cromwell's merciless cannon-balls; afterwards it was utilised as a
ready-made stone quarry, so that one wonders, and is thankful, that
so much of it remains. Past the abbey's walls runs a little slothful
stream with scarcely a murmur, a stream now weed-grown and overhung
by trees, and very pleasant it was to ramble by its cool and shady
side with the grey ruins on one hand and the tangled woods on the
other; the quiet wind just whispering as it passed by, it might be, the
secrets of the past. I had the abbey to myself; not a soul did I see;
not a sound did I hear but the hardly audible lisp of the stream, and
the subdued rustle of the wind-stirred leaves. The spell of peace was
there. I fancy the abbey is little visited, for, like Haughmond, it
lies out of the track of tourist travel, and there is no inn or railway
within miles of it as far as I can remember; now the tourist demands
an inn and refreshment in near proximity to the places he haunts. To
get beyond railways and inns, that is the thing for the peace-loving
traveller. The motor-car he must suffer, but the average motorist loves
the highway; on the Shropshire byways I met scarcely one.
From the abbey I started forth to discover White Ladies Nunnery and
Boscobel. Eventually I discovered both, but so out of the world are
they that I had much difficulty in making their discovery. Signposts
were useless, for not one directed me to either place. First I went to
Tong, as the road to that village is fairly clear to follow, and it
appeared to be on my way; moreover I had been told of a wonderful old
church at Tong, so full of stately monuments that it is locally known
as the "Westminster Abbey of Shropshire," and is sometimes termed the
"Church of the Dead"; also it has gained the title of the "Minster of
the Midlands." Quite a choice of names.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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