England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
"The Lion," white or red, was in the past--I am not sure that it is not
even to-day--by far and away the favourite sign; "The White Hart," I
think, came second. These old inns, both outwardly and inwardly, have
suffered sadly from neglect, and from the mania for show that does not
spell comfort. Yet when simply, decently cared for, and unaltered, how
charming and restful their old-time interiors are with their snug,
low, brown-beamed, ceilinged parlours, sometimes panelled and with big
ingle-nooks, their mullioned windows with their lattice panes, often
deeply recessed with a seat in them, their cool and cosy bars and odd
nooks and curious corners. That delightful Jacobean hostelry, "The
Whyte Harte," to wit, at Broadway in Worcestershire, with its genuine
old-world atmosphere and quiet comfort, may be given as a good example
of one. Some of these old hostelries were provided with a quaint device
in the shape of an indoor wind-dial worked by a vane without, so that
travellers overnight could judge by it of the next day's possibilities,
and learn from the direction of the wind whether it were likely to be
hot or cold, wet or fair. One of these interesting and useful indoor
wind-dials may still, I believe, be seen in London at the Buckingham
Palace Hotel; at least one was there and working but a year or two ago,
and I understand that they are being introduced into modern homes.
There are still some things we may learn from our ancestors.
At Atherstone I was again on the ancient Watling Street, and I
followed it to Daventry as far as it is at present opened out to the
south. Again it led me through a lonely country of field and forest,
unexciting but very pleasant, a country fragrant with the scent of wild
flowers and the refreshing odours of the woods. I did not dally at
Daventry, for the little town appeared to me featureless, and finding
from my map that Banbury was but sixteen miles away, I thought to
spend the night in that place as being of greater interest; moreover,
I had recently read in my morning paper an account of the old historic
Globe Room there at the "Reindeer Inn," with the further unwelcome
information that its fine oak panelling, with its richly carved
fireplace and its elaborately enriched plaster ceiling, had all been
sold and were to be removed, and I wished to see it--if not too late.
In this room Cromwell, it is said, held a council of war in October
1642 just before the battle of Edge Hill, so it had (oh, that pathetic
word "had"!), besides the charm of its ancient picturesqueness, the
additional interest of being with little doubt the place of that
historic gathering. Now the fine old room has been gutted. So the "vast
museum" of England is being despoiled! Whatever were the citizens of
Banbury about to permit of such a thing; could they not have subscribed
the price demanded for the panelling and decorative work (comparatively
a paltry sum when divided amongst so many), and have retained that
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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