England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
unexpected things when travelling by road.
To some there is a potent magnetism, an irresistible fascination about
certain old houses, a subtle influence from which there is no escape.
I confess to it myself. I have lived in them and love them. Of course
there are old houses and old houses; not all possess this peculiar
power to charm, and only those of the Elizabethan or Jacobean period,
with their panelled halls and chambers, their beamed ceilings, their
great gables, their clustering chimneys, their many mullioned windows
and big fireplaces, hold it over me. Those of the Queen Anne or
Georgian age leave me cold; they are too formal; they lack the sense
of mystery and atmosphere of romance. The old moated granges pictured
in the Christmas numbers of the _Illustrated London News_ of many
years back, how they charmed me when a boy! What romances about them
did not I weave to myself! I thought they were only artists' dreams,
but since I have happily discovered them actually existing. I shall
never forget the thrill of delightful surprise the first discovery of
the kind gave me; I could hardly believe my eyes, yet there before
me stood an ancient moated home, grey, gabled, and ivy-clad, with a
broken bell-turret on its lichen-laden roof, its leaded-light windows
reflecting the sunlight, and its big chimney-stacks rising boldly up
against the sky; nor shall I forget the special moment when I crossed
the deep moat by a moss-grown bridge and knocked at the great oak and
nail-studded door. I felt like one in a dream, that this could not be a
reality, and that I should suddenly wake up and find myself deceived,
disenchanted, and in the commonplace world again. Happily it was no
vain imagining.
But I am digressing. We were wandering on winding lanes south of
Burford when I began this overlong digression, and on that maze of
lanes we wandered for some miles--many they seemed to me; first in one
direction, then in another we went, without arriving anywhere. All the
same, it was very pleasant wandering through a land purely given over
to agriculture, somnolent and restful. At last we reached a fair road,
and this took us to the little Wiltshire town of Highworth, boldly set
on a hill, so that we could see it from afar long before we came to
it, its grey church tower and irregular roofed houses outlined sharply
against the sky. Seen thus the town looked like those one finds in
early engravings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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