England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
The great stableyard of "The Bear" is a graphic reminder of the
spacious inns of the coaching era of which it has been said, "A
regiment of cavalry might have been housed in them, and good wine could
be had for the ordering." You may order good wine now at country inns,
and pay the price of it, but if you think to get good wine I can only
say, I hope you may. Though I do know one or two old inns whose cellars
contain some rare old port that has lain in them for years; in one
case, the worthy landlord told me, "since the last coach took its last
change here," which may be but pleasant fiction, I cannot say; still,
in truth, the wine is very old, very rare and good. I have sampled it,
and hope to sample it again as long as the bin lasts, for such wine is
not to be had every day, not even for money.
There were only two other guests at "The Bear" that night; they came
from Yorkshire, they said--I did not ask them--and the only thing they
talked about was horses. They even dated their remarks from the day,
or year, a certain horse won the Derby, or some other horse that had
won some other race. I stood it for an hour or two, then called for my
candle, as travellers did in the days before gas or electricity, and
"to bed," as Pepys has it.
I did not visit the show-house of Blenheim, for I had seen it before;
moreover, show-houses are not to my mind. It may, however, be
interesting to call attention to the conditions on which the Blenheim
estate is held, which estate was granted by a grateful nation to the
first Duke of Marlborough and his heirs in recognition of the famous
victory of Blenheim, in Bavaria, on 2nd August 1704. "A representative
of the family has once a year to convey to Windsor Castle an
embroidered flag, which is placed in the Guards' Chamber. There it
remains for a twelvemonth, till the next rental for holding the palace
and the estate falls due. It is the only return the family have to make
for the property they enjoy."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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