England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
conspicuously marked, that arouse your curiosity, only to find they do
not exist. It was the same on Salisbury Plain; there at a spot by the
roadside between Wylye and Devizes was printed plainly on my map "St.
John á Gores Cross." I believe that a wayside stone cross once stood
there, but when that was no one seems to know. Now there is no vestige
of it, not even its stump in the ground. Possibly it was destroyed
by the Puritans. Now, trusting to my map, I went miles out of my way
purposely to see it. I look upon a map as a faithful friend, and one
does not like to find a friend at fault.
Now succeeded a level stretch of lowland country that had a look of
Holland, excepting that the cottage homes by the way were distinctly
not Dutch. A land where the eye had freedom to rove over wide spaces
of green right away to a circling horizon of blue, and a wild wind
swept over it, fresh, cool, and laden with the pungent scent of marsh
flowers--as fresh and cool as the wind that sweeps over the sea, only
without its salt savour. The wind was making holiday; it tossed the
long grasses and reeds about, it bent down the hedges before it, it
made mimic waves and Lilliputian tempests on the ponds that we passed.
It is wind that gives life to a scene, and the strife of it stirred the
blood in our veins. We rejoiced in the wind, for it came from the west,
with just a suspicion of keenness, but no harshness, of greeting.
In spite of the wind and the sur, sur, sur of it, the whole countryside
gave me the impression of great quietude. I could allow for the
wind--it would not blow so every day; few people were in the fields,
and those few seemed to be taking life easy, contentedly doing little;
the hedges were delightfully tangled, a disgrace to good farming it may
be, but that is a matter apart. Perhaps they needed some pruning, but
they best pleased my eye just wild as they were, growing as Nature
would have them. It was a land to laze in, to do nothing in haste; only
the wind stirred it up to a semblance of passion. There was no flow in
the streams that one could perceive; it was a relief to come to a land
that suggested nothing but rest. The interfering political economist
might well shake his head at all this, but I was out for my pleasure,
without a thought of what he might say. It was so peace-bestowing,
and that was its charm. It was a land of health rather than a land
of wealth--and who shall say that health is not the better thing?--a
land that conformed to no canon of beauty, but none the less pleasing
to me. I will wager that no one grew prematurely old from overwork
in it: why should he? Mere money-making is the bane of the age; it
gives a man no time to call his soul his own. "If a person," says
Stevenson, "cannot be happy without remaining idle, idle he should
remain. It is a revolutionary precept." It is. I do not go so far. I
only protest against money-making at the price of much leisure, the
making of money for money's sake only.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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