England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
An inn of the old-fashioned sort--A chat with "mine host"--A weird
experience--Ghost stories--An ancient rectory house--A quaint
interior--A haunted passage--Lost in a fog--The game of bowls--An old
posting bill--The siege of Alton church--Ants as weather prophets.
At Beaconsfield I put up for the night at "The White Hart," an ancient
and homely hostelry where I found comfortable quarters, a landlord
both interesting and obliging, a waitress civil and attentive, and
excellent fare: such was my accidental good fortune. "The White
Hart" is a very ancient though much altered building, dating, I was
informed, from the days of Elizabeth; certainly some of its big and
shaped beams upstairs testify to its ancientness. The coaching days
were the days of its prime, for then one hundred horses were stabled
there--so I afterwards learnt. The landlord received me with a cheery
smile at the door: he knew how to welcome a guest. I casually told
him I was tired and hungry, for I had travelled far that day; then he
must needs at once concern himself about my dinner, so that I might
not have to wait unduly for it, and promised me the best that the town
could supply. I explained to him I was not an exacting traveller; he
was far more anxious about my comfort and my fare than was I. That is
the sort of landlord for me: very different his welcome to that one
generally receives from the stony-eyed manager of a modern hotel. At
these old-fashioned inns, with their friendly, good-natured landlords
(for the one seems always to go with the other), I, but a tweed-clad,
dust-stained traveller, always feel quite at home and at ease; there is
such a charming simplicity and do-as-you-will air about them. Were I a
millionaire I would choose them in preference to all others and desire
no better. I merely sought a night's shelter, and however humble my
chamber, if clean, it satisfied me. These inns give you their best, and
who but the surliest could grumble at that when good is the best? I am
an unpretending road-farer, though I fare in a car. I do not care to
discuss my dinners when I get them; some days I made do with a tea, I
found it more refreshing, but the dinner provided for me at that little
inn of no pretence consisted of soup, fish, fowl, sweet omelette, with
cheese to follow. Perhaps my hunger, begotten of a long day in fresh
air, gave me an extra zest, but I thought at the time that never had
I sat down to a better cooked dinner--I have certainly sat down to a
worse in a wealthy man's house. This much for my modest inn I must say.
Indeed, on the strength of its goodness I indulged in a small bottle of
wine, and the wine was no worse than that of the same sort I have had
at expensive London hotels at double the price, or perhaps even more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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