England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
there too long, for on getting to know the quiet country folk I too
quickly discovered they had their grievances one against the other,
just as much as those people who live in less desirable spots; these
grievances mostly seemed paltry to me who had no part in them, but they
were not to be got over. Yes, I had stayed there too long. Three weeks
had I stayed, so charmed was I with the place and its cosy old inn: I
had better have stayed for only three days, and retained my first dream
of perfection.
Next we came to the adjoining villages of Corhampton and Meon Stoke;
I took them for one, but I learnt that the little river Meon divides
them and that they really are two distinct places. On each side of
the river, almost within a stone's throw of each other, their ancient
churches stand. Two places of worship where one might suffice--surely a
waste of Christian energy! How much energy is often wasted in country
churches! A Sussex parson once told me that sometimes he had to preach
and the choir had to sing to three old women and an umbrella! Both
Corhampton and Meon Stoke are lovely villages in a lovely spot enclosed
by wooded hills; you might travel for many a day and many a mile before
coming to so fair a corner of the land. It is as fair as wooded hills,
gently gliding river, with a droning old mill by its side, green
meadows, pretty cottages gracefully yet accidentally grouped, and two
grey, quaint, and ancient churches can make it.
Meon Stoke church with its odd black wooden bell-turret makes a pretty
picture standing by the side of the river where it broadens out into
a pool. Corhampton church stands on a little knoll almost opposite,
and is small and most unpretending, but of much interest, being Saxon,
though since those far-away Saxon times it has suffered alteration. Now
Saxon churches are rare in the land, notwithstanding that this was the
second we had come upon in out-of-the-way places during the journey.
Its walls still show the long-and-short Saxon stone-work, and there
is a good example of a Saxon doorway on the north side, unfortunately
built up. There is to me little doubt that its walls are the original
ones, though patched here and there, and though later windows have
been inserted in them, so that the building remains the same size and
form as when first erected, long centuries past. In the churchyard is
a large yew-tree undoubtedly ancient, but whether it is "as old as
the building itself and the oldest in the country," as a parishioner
asserted it was, I could scarcely believe; perhaps he did not realise
the age of the church. I grant that the tree likely flourished in the
days of Queen Bess, probably was old even then, and that takes one
back a good while. How many churchyards boast of having the biggest
and oldest yew-tree in the land? I have quite lost count of them, and
of the "smallest church in England" I have seen not a few. Standing at
one side of the porch we noticed the original altar-stone with five
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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