England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Chichester and nowhere else; to the south was the sea, and there was
no other way. But Chichester is a pleasant old city, though it does
not realise impossible dreams; its grey-toned cathedral makes a fine
background for its beautiful arched market-cross. I am afraid I admire
the market-cross more than the cathedral, for the cathedral is rather
interesting than beautiful, whilst the market-cross is wholly beautiful
and interesting besides. Never had an architect of lesser structures a
more happy inspiration than when designing that graceful cross.
We drove southward from Chichester to regain the sea front, and the
road we selected we found led to Bognor: dull and dreary Bognor I
have heard it called; its name is against it, and it is a hard thing
to struggle against a bad name whether in man or place. Now we found
ourselves in a flat land, a land of meadows and fields of waving
corn, a land that stretched far away, wide and open to the long level
lines of the distant horizon. Truly it was not a beautiful country
according to the accepted traditions of beauty, for it was devoid
of all character except flatness, and that is a quality that mostly
appeals to a Dutchman or Fen dweller. Yet there was a certain charm
about that flat country to me; I think it lay in the wide dome of
sky above that flooded the landscape with unshadowed light, and the
bracing breeziness of it, swept as it was by the unchecked winds from
the sea. It was all so open, free, and flushed with the freshest of
airs; then there was such a homely, friendly feeling about it, for
it was a country of modest homes, not one of mansions or villas--a
country of odd farmsteads and cottages only. Truly there was nothing
strictly to admire in all the far prospect, only a succession of grass
and green cornfields, "one field much like another," as I think Dr.
Johnson once said of the country; but the brightness of the vast spaces
of sunlit land, and the pronounced pureness and clearness of the air,
made for cheerfulness and were inspiriting. If the landscape was in a
measure monotonous, the wild flowers that abounded by the way made fair
atonement for it. I knew not their names, but what mattered that? It
was their beauty I prized, their colour and form. I pity the man who
can travel from Dan to Beersheba and cry, "'Tis all barren." He had
best stay at home and travel by book, till he learns through other eyes
how to see. As Keats wrote of the pre-Wordsworth poets:
Ah, dismal-soul'd!
The winds of heaven blew, the ocean roll'd
Its gathering waves--ye felt it not. The blue
Bared its eternal bosom and the dew
Of summer nights collected still to make
The morning precious: beauty was awake!
Why were ye not awake? But ye were dead
To things ye knew not.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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