England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
We paid a toll at the bridge by which we crossed the Arun, and that was
the only toll we had on the way. Years ago, when I was much younger
and took long driving tours, the tolls I had to pay at the toll-gates
often cost me more than my dinner, to say nothing of the provoking fact
of having frequently to pull up, and often besides be kept waiting for
change. Those old toll-keepers were a race apart, and in remote places
would dally at the gate whilst they asked me for the news of the day.
Such trifles seem to make those old times appear farther off than they
are. It was slow travelling then, and with tired horses often your
choice of an inn for the night was "Hobson's choice," for you could
not go farther--yet these leisured old times make pleasant memory. Now
wherever you go you can rarely escape the morning newspaper; to do
so is a test of remoteness indeed. What with telegraphs, telephones,
railways and motors, news travels fast and the world is made smaller.
It was the coach that brought the first tidings of events in times
past, and its arrival was eagerly watched for in the towns and villages
on the way: so was the news of Trafalgar and Waterloo spread through
the land. Some of those toll-keepers, it is said, were in league
with the highwayman, and signalled to him about any likely passing
and lonely traveller by an open or a shut window, at night by means
of a light in the same window; but this may be scandal. At least we
know that some rascally landlords of inns were accomplices of the
highwayman; rumour indeed has it that Dick Turpin was so indignant at
a certain landlord giving information to a rival "when under articles
to him" that he threatened to shoot that landlord. In return for his
services the toll-keeper was never robbed of his day's takings. There
is a tale told of a certain lady of quality who in those exciting times
of travel always used to take with her a purse filled with base coin to
hand over: but how, I wonder, did that lady become possessed of so much
base coin?
It was a pleasant drive by the side of the river to the pretty village
of Bramber, with its half-timber cottages and fragment of a Norman
castle on a wooded knoll. I think it was at Bramber that a friend told
me a few years ago he visited an interesting little museum and found
the following admission notice: "Adults twopence, Children One penny,
Ladies and gentlemen what they will." I wonder how many extra pennies
good folk were induced to part with for the glory of being in the
latter category? A somewhat similar notice I read in an inn garden:
"People must not pluck the flowers. Ladies and gentlemen never do."
There was some art in that notice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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