England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Again on the road, after a time we sighted a signpost pointing the way
to Basingstoke, then in a short distance another with the same legend;
indeed, all the signposts we came to had "Basingstoke" writ large on
their arms, as though there were a conspiracy amongst them to force
the traveller to that town. Cobbett on one of his rides wanted to go
from somewhere to Hindhead, and he was told he had better go through
Liphook; but for some reason known to himself that obstinate farmer
declared, "I won't go to Liphook." And he didn't. Just then a fit of
like obstinacy came over me; I would not be dictated to by signposts,
I would not go to Basingstoke. Basingstoke was a town; I would keep in
the country. So whenever I came to a signpost with "To Basingstoke"
upon it I went another way. It would have been better had I gone to
Basingstoke, for the lanes I got on were tortuous, narrow, and rough,
without any compensating virtues in the matter of scenery. However,
I had a fit of travel temper strong on me, so I stuck to my whim and
eventually discovered a decent road that led across a rolling open
country, and from every height of our up-and-down progress we had
extended views to distant hills, blue and undulating. The distances
were glorious, the near scenery featureless, so our eyes feasted on the
distances.
So we arrived at Kingsclere, like Odiham a pleasant and a clean little
town remote from rail, and it seems to get along, in a quiet way,
exceedingly well without it. The place pleased me, not because it was
specially agreeable, but owing to the absence of any aggressive modern
ugliness. Its virtues are of the negative order, but even that negative
quality counts for much. I noticed its large and fine old church--it
was so large and close to the road I could not help but notice it; all
the same I did not dally to go a clerk-hunting, so failed to inspect
the interior: on that sunshiny day my antiquarian zeal did not run to
church interiors, though I did not miss observing a rather good example
of a Norman doorway unfortunately built up on its south wall. I noted,
too, opposite the church, and pleasantly retired from the street,
another of those clean little unpretentious inns I had so frequently
come across--an inn that from a passing glance of it almost made me
wish the day's journey ended there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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