France -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- France
is greater than the scourge of fire. A blaze may be quenched, but where
could the flame be kindled that would arrest the quadrupled Rhone? For
the population of Avignon a good deal was at stake, and I am almost
ashamed to confess that in the midst of the public alarm I considered
the situation from the point of view of the little projects of a
sentimental tourist. Would the prospective inundation interfere with my
visit to Vaucluse, or make it imprudent to linger twenty-four hours
longer at Avignon? I must add that the tourist was not perhaps, after
all, so sentimental. I have spoken of the pilgrimage to the shrine of
Petrarch as obligatory, and that was, in fact, the light in which it
presented itself to me; all the more that I had been twice at Avignon
without undertaking it. This is why I was vexed at the Rhone.--if vexed
I was--for representing as impracticable an excursion which I cared
nothing about. How little I cared was manifest from my inaction on
former occasions. I had a prejudice against Vaucluse, against Petrarch,
even against the incomparable Laura. I was sure that the place was
cockneyfied and threadbare, and I had never been able to take an
interest in the poet and the lady. I was sure that I had known many
women as charming and as handsome as she, about whom much less noise had
been made; and I was convinced that her singer was factitious and
literary, and that there are half a dozen stanzas in Wordsworth that
speak more to the soul than the whole collection of his _fioriture_.
This was the crude state of mind in which I determined to go, at any
risk, to Vaucluse. Now that I think it over, I seem to remember that I
had hoped, after all, that the submersion of the roads would forbid it.
Since morning the clouds had gathered again, and by noon they were so
heavy that there was every prospect of a torrent. It appeared absurd to
choose such a time as this to visit a fountain--a fountain which would
be indistinguishable in the general cataract. Nevertheless I took a
vow, that if at noon the rain should not have begun to descend upon
Avignon I would repair to the head-spring of the Sorgues. When the
critical moment arrived the clouds were hanging over Avignon like
distended water-bags, which only needed a prick to empty themselves. The
prick was not given, however; all nature was too much occupied in
following the aberrations of the Rhone to think of playing tricks
elsewhere. Accordingly I started for the station in a spirit which, for
a tourist who sometimes had prided himself on his unfailing supply of
sentiment, was shockingly perfunctory.
"For tasks in hours of insight willed
May be in hours of gloom fulfilled."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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