France -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- France
I walked round the parapet which protects the outer edge of the moat (it
is all up-hill, and the moat deepens and deepens), till I came to the
entrance which faces the town, and which is as bare and strong as the
rest. The concierge took me into the court; but there was nothing to
see. The place is used as a magazine of ammunition, and the yard
contains a multitude of ugly buildings. The only thing to do is to walk
round the bastions for the view; but at the moment of my visit the
weather was thick, and the bastions began and ended with themselves. So
I came out and took another look at the big, black exterior, buttressed
with white-ribbed towers, and perceived that a desperate sketcher might
extract a picture from it, especially if he were to bring in, as they
say, the little black bronze statue of the good King René (a weak
production of
[Illustration: ANGERS--OLD TIMBERED HOUSES]
David d'Angers), which, standing within sight, ornaments the melancholy
faubourg. He would do much better, however, with the very striking old
timbered house (I suppose of the fifteenth century) which is called the
Maison d'Adam and is easily the first specimen at Angers of the domestic
architecture of the past. This admirable house, in the centre of the
town, gabled, elaborately timbered, and much restored, is a really
imposing monument. The basement is occupied by a linen-draper, who
flourishes under the auspicious sign of the Mère de Famille; and above
his shop the tall front rises in five overhanging storeys. As the house
occupies the angle of a little _place_, this front is double, and the
black beams and wooden supports, displayed over a large surface and
carved and interlaced, have a high picturesqueness. The Maison d'Adam is
quite in the grand style, and I am sorry to say I failed to learn what
history attaches to its name. If I spoke just above of the cathedral as
"moderate," I suppose I should beg its pardon; for this serious charge
was probably prompted by the fact that it consists only of a nave,
without side aisles. A little reflection now convinces me that such a
form is a distinction; and indeed I find it mentioned, rather
inconsistently, in my note-book, a little further on, as "extremely
simple and grand." The nave is spoken of in the same volume as "big,
serious, and Gothic," though the choir and transepts are noted as very
shallow. But it is not denied that the air of the whole thing is
original and striking; and it would therefore appear, after all, that
the cathedral of Angers, built during the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries, is a sufficiently honourable church; the more that its high
west front, adorned with a very primitive Gothic portal, supports two
elegant tapering spires, between which, unfortunately, an ugly modern
pavilion has been inserted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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