A Manual of Historic Ornament: Treating upon the evolution, tradition, and development of architecture and other applied arts. Prepared for the use of students and craftsmenGlazier, Richard
History
A Manual of Historic Ornament: Treating upon the evolution, tradition, and development of architecture and other applied arts. Prepared for the use of students and craftsmen
Glazier, Richard
Decoration and ornament -- History; Decoration and ornament, Architectural -- History; Decorative arts -- History
The ornamental designs of textile fabrics of different nations and
periods are characterised by well-defined forms, differentiated by
racial influence, climatic conditions and the myths and traditions of
the people. Yet the traditional Eastern origin may be traced through
many textile designs, for there is no doubt that India, Persia and
Arabia influenced the designs of textile fabrics more than any other
nations. This was due no doubt partly to the Eastern weavers carrying
their art and traditions with them to various parts of Europe, and also
to the exportation of their splendid fabrics, but principally to the
beautiful and interesting designs which were perfectly adapted to the
process of weaving. It is due no doubt to this frank adaptation of
natural forms and their appropriateness to the technical necessities of
woven fabrics, that has rendered this Eastern influence so persistent
through many centuries in different parts of Europe. It is remarkable
that even in Italy during the whole of the Renascence period, with the
characteristic scroll forms and acanthus foliation of its architecture
and decorative arts, the textiles are quite distinct in style, having
the characteristics of the Sicilian, Persian and Indian ornament.
Among the earliest figured fabrics must be placed those of Assyria, of
which representations may be seen in Layard’s Book on Nineveh. The
patterns consisted of symmetrically placed winged figures with the Hom
or Tree of Life and the rosette, which was used as a symbol by Zoraster.
It is probable that many of these patterns were embroidered, as the
Babylonians were reported to be skilful in the art of embroidery, but it
is also certain that some of the patterns were woven. The figured
fabrics found in Egypt only date from the 5th and 6th centuries A.D.,
and show a marked Byzantine and Persian influence (figs. 1-7, plate 35).
Characteristic Byzantine examples have medallions and symmetrically
placed figures and ornament of the “Hom.” At Alexandria and Antioch,
many fine green and gold silk fabrics with ornament in brown outline
were produced from the 6th to the 10th centuries.
Under the Saracens, textile fabrics reached their highest development;
splendour of colour, beauty and perfection of material and the
singularly interesting beauty of the designs being the chief
characteristics.
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