A Manual of Historic Ornament: Treating upon the evolution, tradition, and development of architecture and other applied arts. Prepared for the use of students and craftsmenGlazier, Richard
History
A Manual of Historic Ornament: Treating upon the evolution, tradition, and development of architecture and other applied arts. Prepared for the use of students and craftsmen
Glazier, Richard
Decoration and ornament -- History; Decoration and ornament, Architectural -- History; Decorative arts -- History
The crusades now began to influence the arts; in 1098, Antioch was taken
and the spoil distributed through Europe; in 1204, Constantinople was
taken by Baldwin, Count of Flanders, and the Venetian Doge, Dandolo, and
the vast spoil of textiles distributed. It was doubtless under the
influence of the crusades that the Sicilian weavers of the 13th and 14th
centuries produced the many beautiful fabrics enriched with winged
lions, foliated crosses and crowns, rayed stars, harts and birds linked
together, and with the introduction of armorial bearings. Early in the
14th century, this splendid tradition was introduced into Italy, and at
Lucca many beautiful fabrics were produced, having the same
characteristics and technique as the Sicilian fabrics.
The cloak upon the recumbent bronze figure of Richard II. in Westminster
Abbey has a pattern of foliage with couchant harts and rayed stars, and
was most probably copied from the original silk made for Richard at
Lucca or Palermo.
The beautiful materials and designs of Indian textile fabrics are
indicative of the love of nature and the splendour of colour of a remote
antiquity. Though influenced at various times by Greek, Persian and
Arabian traditions, India still preserved an indigenous ornamental art
of remarkable freshness and vitality, the designers choosing their own
flora and fauna with rare selective power and adaptive qualities. With
an instinctive feeling for ornamental art, aided by the splendid
colourings of the native dyes, they produced textile fabrics of silks,
brocades, and gold and silver lace remarkable for richness and
perfection of material, beauty of design and harmony of colour. The
Indian pine is a familiar form of enrichment differentiated from the
cypress of Persia (fig. 1, plate 22), by the spiral at the apex. This
typical pine is treated with a wonderful diversity of detail (figs. 4, 5
and 6, plate 23). The splendid carpets of India were doubtless
influenced by the Persian tradition and they follow the same methods and
ornamental arrangements, adapting, conventionalizing and emphasising
plants, flowers and seeds, and rendering them with a fine feeling for
form and colour. Block printing was largely used for silks and cottons,
and many splendid examples are now treasured in our museums; an
illustration of a printed cotton Palampore from South Kensington is
given here, showing the beautiful floral treatment, diversity of detail,
and contrast of line and mass. The gold and silver Brocades or “Kincobs”
of Ahmedabad and Benares, with patterns of animals, flowers and foliage
richly spangled; the delicate muslins of Dacca, the gold and silver
primed muslins of Jaipur, and the woollen
[Illustration:
Plate 38.
PERSIAN CARPET. 16^{TH} CENTURY. S.K.M]
shawls of Kashmir, with the well-known pine pattern, are splendid
examples of richness of material, delicacy and skilfulness of technic,
and beauty and appropriateness of ornamentation.
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