A Manual of Historic Ornament: Treating upon the evolution, tradition, and development of architecture and other applied arts. Prepared for the use of students and craftsmenGlazier, Richard
History
A Manual of Historic Ornament: Treating upon the evolution, tradition, and development of architecture and other applied arts. Prepared for the use of students and craftsmen
Glazier, Richard
Decoration and ornament -- History; Decoration and ornament, Architectural -- History; Decorative arts -- History
The revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 by Louis the XIV., caused
large numbers of weavers to come to England, bringing their art and
tradition with them, and many established themselves at Spitalfields
which soon rose to some importance. The patterns, necessarily, were
purely French in treatment, consisting of natural arrangements of
flowers; a sketch is here given of a Spitalfields design for silk
damask.
[Illustration: FLOWER VASE PATTERN]
The textile fabrics of Flanders reached a high degree of perfection in
the 16th and 17th centuries, Bruges being famous for its silk damasks
and velvets, the patterns showing the traditional Persian or the
pomegranate and artichoke type of the Florentine textiles. Block
printing had been introduced into Flanders in the 15th century and many
fine patterns with Indian motives were produced up to the 17th century.
[Illustration: DESIGN FOR A SPITALSFIELD SILK FABRIC DATED 1739 SKM]
At Ypres, fine diapered linen was manufactured, and Ghent was famous for
its woollens, but the remarkable prosperity of Flanders was destroyed by
the Spanish occupation (1556-1648).
[Illustration: SINGLE MULLION PATTERN]
Then large numbers of Flemish weavers came to England and settled in
many parts of the country, bringing their traditions and craftsmanship,
which have undoubtedly had a most marked influence upon the production
of cotton and woollen textile fabrics in England.
Tapestry, of which many fine examples of the 16th and 17th centuries are
treasured in our museums and palaces, differs from most woven fabrics in
its method of production, which consists of interweaving and knotting
short pieces of coloured wefts, which form the pattern, to a strong
warp, a ground weft being thrown across each pick to bind the material
well together;
[Illustration:
TEXTILE FABRICS. Plate 39.
]
this is almost the same method as that used in the manufacture of the
Indian and Persian carpets. It was during the 14th and 15th centuries,
at Arras in Flanders, that storied tapestries were brought to their
culmination and the tapestry workers became a most powerful guild. From
about 1480, Brussels produced many magnificent hangings from designs by
the great masters of the Italian Renascence. Raphael’s famous cartoons
which are now in the South Kensington Museum are the original designs
for the ten tapestries manufactured at Brussels for Pope Leo X. for the
enrichment of the Sistine chapel in the Vatican; the seven cartoons,
three being lost, were purchased by Charles I.
Many of the great Flemish painters also designed for the Brussels
tapestries, such as Van Orley, Van Leyden and Jan Mabuse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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