A modern trio in an old townHaviland-Taylor, Katharine
General
A modern trio in an old town
Haviland-Taylor, Katharine
Americans -- Italy -- Fiction; Florence (Italy) -- Fiction; Young women -- Fiction
From the Pitti Palace we went to the Uffizi Gallery; through a little
narrow passage that runs from the Pitti across the upper story of the
Ponte Vecchio--the old bridge--along the Arno for a block, and then
turns into the great Uffizi that was built by Vasari in 1560 to ’74
for the municipal government, and by the order of Cosimo I because
he wanted to use the Palazzo Vecchio, which was then the municipal
building, for his own home.
Mr. Wake said that a good many people try to look up the history of the
Uffizi family, but he advised me not to try, and when I asked why not
he told me that “Uffizi” means offices.
All this information was given in a way that made it seem quite
palatable, and not at all like the information that one usually gets.
I enjoyed even the history of the erecting of those great, strong
buildings, and when it came to the families, I loved it. It was truly
interesting to hear of the wars of the blacks and the whites, who
were the opposed and warring factions in Florence of the Middle Ages,
and Mr. Wake told of how they planned their conquests in hidden
ways or under the cover of black night; and of how the Medici power
was overthrown; of a priest who was made so deep a sympathizer of
the oppressed that he tried to stab Cosimo de Medici while he was at
Mass, then of how Cosimo escaped this, and finally died in one of his
peaceful country palaces which stands to-day just as it did then.
In the Uffizi, Mr. Wake asked me what I would look at if I were alone,
and I said the pictures of wars and animals, and Sam took me around
hunting these, while Viola stuck to Mr. Wake and admired the things
that every one should admire.
One sunny day, we went to the Piazzale Michelangelo, which is a great,
cleared space on the top of a hill on the south side of the Arno,
riding up in a _tram_ and walking slowly down a cypress shaded path
upon which, at intervals, were the stations of the cross. At another
time we walked out to see Andrea Del Sarto’s last supper, which is in a
tiny church way out in the outskirts of Florence, and is not often seen
by the hurried kind of tourist who uses a guide.
Then we saw where well-known people had lived--Thomas Hardy, (and he
had had rooms right up near us) and so had George Eliot and Walter
Savage Landor and the Brownings and dozens of others I have forgotten.
And of course we saw a little house where Boccaccio was supposed to
have lived, and the place in front of Santa Maria Novella (a church)
where he, Boccaccio, met seven lovely ladies, one morning in 1348, just
after Mass, when the city lay stricken under the horror of the plague.
Mr. Wake pointed Boccaccio out to us as we were coming home past the
church, one bleak November afternoon, after a walk that had taken us to
the churches on the South Side of the Arno.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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