A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
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A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
Dec. 15th. Therm. 9°. 30′.—At 8.30. A.M. we started with
Mohammed, who was to take us to Zaizow, and at a mile S.E. of the
gardens, arrived at the tomb of Sidi Besheer, where we recited the
Fatha, or first chapter of the Koran, and where I gave a dollar to
purchase food for the poor. It was a small mud hut, white-washed
in front, covered at the top with palm branches, and standing on a
sandy plain. Custom, and the sanctity of the Marāboot, induce all
Kafflés coming from the Interior to stop and refresh the slaves
and animals at this spot, previously to their entering Morzouk; and
here, too, all travellers assembling for the Interior, meet. Hard
by are the ruins of an old Arab Castle, called Gusser Hamādi.
On leaving this plain, we got into a most excellent beaten road,
running S. and by E. to Zaizow, and passed four of the Sultan’s
men on horseback, escorting three poor Augela Arabs, bound on camels,
with thirty-eight slaves, once their property. These people had been
six years trading in Soudan, and were now on their way to prison. We
left fourteen of their countrymen in confinement when we set out.
At 10.35. arrived at the small village of Zaizow, where we found
the Kaid Saad, who was to be our attendant, sitting on the sand, at
his own door, making women’s red shoes. On seeing the Sultan’s
order, he sprung up with alacrity, and carrying his tools into
the house, returned to us in a short time, in a gay dress, with a
sabre hanging over his shoulder. He was a fine honest looking black,
very fat and well oiled, and had the appearance of a great eater,
which qualification he soon gave proof of. While waiting here,
we saw a black woman with lips of a pale pink colour, and one or
two marks on each hand, of the same hue. I wished to ask her some
questions, but she looked so sulky that I desisted.
Zaizow is prettily situated in a little dell, thickly planted
with palms, and having a ruined castle on a rising ground in the
centre. The houses are nearly all in ruins, and many had palms
growing in them: the population, according to the Kaid, amounted
to about 70 souls. It is E. and by S. seven miles from Hadge
Hajeel. Mohammed left us in charge of our new friend, the Kaid,
who soon found a donkey to carry him on with us to Zuela, at which
place he was to find his horse.
At 11.30. A.M. set out, and at 2.30. passed a village on the
left, named Areg el Libban, and an old castle, called Gusser
Bighia. 2.45. Passed the ruined village and castle of Mokhāten
مخعتن. 3.12. arrived at a place called Deesa ديس where we
found the Kaid of Traghan, who promised to come to us on the morrow,
and to send his brother as soon as he returned home. The village
of Ershādi faces Deesa to the southward of the road. Leaving
Deesa, we passed for an hour over a flat, so completely encrusted
with salt, that it had the appearance of a hoar frost in England;
indeed, the whole of the road from Hadge Hajeel bore, more or less,
the same resemblance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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