A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
History
A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
January 4th. Thermometer 2°, wind northerly.—I was again very
severely attacked with hemma, and, as usual, suffered much pain
in the spleen and liver. I imagined this attack to proceed from
the coarseness of our bazeen, which was made of bad gaphooly,
and resembled dough. The Sheikh brought me a dome date, which was
a curiosity rarely seen in Fezzan; it was the size of a large cob
walnut. The rind, which is hard and dry, is the only part eaten,
and is gnawed off; under it is a hard covering, which encloses the
stone; the outer shell is so strong as to resist a hammer, and even
to break knives. The taste of the rind is not much unlike that of
stale gingerbread, which it resembles both in smell and colour. There
were four trees of the dome date here, which I purposed seeing. I
was so fortunate as to purchase a dried and smoked fish from the
Niger near Kashna, which I intended taking to England.
This evening, while lying in my bed, I heard the mewing of a cat,
which our people imagined must be the devil. At first they attempted
to laugh; but the boy significantly remarking that “the Castle was
a very old place,” Besheer and the Kaid hastened to load their
guns, and to fire them off in the Skeefa; Iblis, or the devil,
being much averse to gunpowder, or any thing of which sulphur
forms a part; each then, taking a lighted palm branch, rushed out
to look for the cause of their alarm; the poor cat had, however,
in the meantime escaped. On their return, the camel man, whom they
considered a great scholar, roared out the Korsi, a most powerful
charm against every kind of spirit, from Iblis and the little
Shiateen, or young devils, down to gholes and afrites. After this
comforting stave, he hurried over several chapters of the Koran in
the same key; but owing to the Kaid’s musket not going off until
he had snapped it four or five times, their fears remained in full
force, and they continued talking and praying until a late hour,
convinced that Iblis was still in the house. They were not much
pleased with my ridiculing their fears, observing, that although
in my country there might be no devils, I ought not, therefore,
to doubt their existence in Fezzan, for there were plenty in every
old house. Even the discovery of the cat after this disturbance,
could not in any way remove their prejudices.
January 5th. Thermometer 7°, wind north-east.—Belford and myself
better to-day; the water very brackish, which not a little increased
our weakness.
From a Zuela Arab, who had lately returned from Benghāzi and Derna,
I obtained the following account, which I have reason to suppose
correct, as he was a better informed man than the generality
of Arabs.
Zuela to Temissa, 2 days of eight hours each; the first east,
the second north.
Temissa to Fuggha, 2 long summer days, and three and a half in
winter, north-north-east. It is one day west of the Harutz el
Abiad, and is situated in a wadey between two mountains, which run
north-east and south-west.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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