A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
History
A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
I now began to feel much alarm respecting Belford, whom we had
left some hours before, slowly following with the camel and
its driver, but who did not come up with us. After having made
frequent and anxious search for him, to our great relief he
arrived at 11.45. P.M.; though in a most deplorable condition,
having fallen from his horse in consequence of excessive weakness
and dizziness. The camel man saw the animal without its rider, and
was still more fortunate in observing Belford as he lay extended and
helpless on the desert; where, but for this providential discovery,
he must have remained all night, at the risk of his life; exposed
to severe cold, and in danger of being devoured by the immense
herds of jackals and hyænas which were prowling about the plain,
and whose howlings we heard all round the village. The poor fellow
was so deaf, that our voices could not have reached him, even at
the highest pitch; and the night being very dark, every attempt to
find him would have been fruitless. Much as he required food and
restoratives, we had, unhappily, none to give him, the people of
the village refusing to supply us. A little coffee was all we could
prepare for him, and that his stomach rejected. In this dilemma, all
that remained was to cover him up as comfortably as we could, and to
place him on the sandy floor, where we left him, in the hope that his
total exhaustion would at least produce quiet and undisturbed sleep.
January 8th. Thermometer 2° 40′; wind northerly.—Belford was
this day a little better. At eight the camel started. We observed
a Fakeer, or schoolmaster, sitting with his scholars on the sand;
one roaring, the others squeaking sentences of the Koran. This man
hearing me reproach the natives for their want of hospitality on
the previous evening, in refusing assistance to a sick stranger,
went into his house, and brought out five eggs, all the food he
possessed, which he hoped Belford would eat. This kind action
redeemed the character of the village; for had it not been on this
good man’s account, I should certainly have complained to the
Sultan, and he would, in consequence, have imposed on the offenders a
fine of a certain number of dollars, slaves, or cattle, a plan he is
very expert in. Indeed, he never loses sight of any opportunity of
exacting such penalties, as they not only enrich him, but make his
subjects stand in awe of him. At ten we proceeded: Belford still
better, but remaining very giddy. At four, having stopped at El
Bakkhi to drink the excellent water there, we arrived at Gatrone,
and put up at the house of our former hostess.
January 9th. Thermometer 1° 40′.—Belford was much recovered. The
Kaid this morning made me some excellent ink of the pods of the
Gurd tree, of which I have already spoken, and a bright yellow earth
resembling sulphur in colour, easily dissolvible in water, and acid
to the taste, called Shahaira, and brought from Bilma by the Tibboo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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