A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
History
A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
On our rising the tops of the mountains we observed with great joy
the sea, beating on some shoals at a distance from the shore; but
we could not see the beach, as it was hidden from us by the sands
of Zleetun. To the great astonishment of my fellow travellers,
who no doubt thought me mad, I chanted God save the King, and Rule
Britannia, as loud as I could roar. The poor slaves looked forward
to the mighty river before them with wonder and fear, and I believe
at that moment all the stories they had heard of “the people on the
great waters who eat the Blacks,” recurred to their imagination. It
blew a heavy gale from the north-east, and the white foam added not
a little to the imposing appearance of this (to them) terrific water.
The houses of Zleetun are scattered about amongst palms and olive
trees, which cover a space of ground of three or four miles in
extent. Corn is cultivated in great quantities.
Sunday, 19th March.—This place is particularly blessed in
possessing the remains of a great Marāboot, who is buried in a
really handsome Mosque, ornamented with minarets and neat cupolas,
and white-washed all over. The name of the Saint is Sidi Abd el
Salām. His descendants are much respected, and are called Waled
el Sheikh والدالشيخ, “Sons of the Elder;” they think
themselves authorised to be the most impudent begging set of people
in the whole Regency of Tripoli. I was on the point of kicking out of
my tent one of them who would not understand the monosyllable _no_
in answer to a request which he made me for some powder in the name
and on account of his illustrious ancestor; but luckily Lizari came
in at the moment and prevented me; and he afterwards told me I might
as well have thought of kicking a descendant of the Prophet himself.
The whole of the surrounding country is most luxuriant in corn,
dates, and olives, and is quite level. The Castle in which we
were is of the true Arab character, built of mud and gravel, and
swarming with vermin. The rooms are round the large courtyard,
and their roofs, being flat, are the platforms for one or two
four-pounders. Two markets are held here weekly; one on a Friday, in
front of the Castle, the other on a Tuesday, near the Marāboot’s
tomb. The country is governed by a Mamluke of the Bashaw, who has
the title of Kaid. If I may judge from the number of drunken men who
were at the market, Lackbi is pretty universally drank. I bought
a very fine sheep for a dollar and a quarter. Every thing here,
as in Tripoli, is in the hands of the Jews: they are artisans and
merchants, having dealings from one farthing up to hundreds of
dollars; they also distil brandy from the dates, and find a very
ready sale for it. Some small vessels bring goods to Zleetun; but
as there is no roadsted, they anchor in the offing when the wind is
from shore. Hills of sand obstruct the view of the sea at about a
mile from the houses, and goods are carried that distance by camels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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