I was frequently amused by observing the pains taken by these innocent savages to adorn themselves; their love of finery never ceasing, even when no one was near to admire them. Though overcome by privation of every kind, and by the fatigue of a long day’s journey, they employed themselves in converting into neck ornaments, snail shells, berries, or any other whimsical objects they could meet with. Those who possessed rings, bead bands for the head, or silver ear-rings, never failed to put them on when they stopped for the night, washing and oiling their skins whenever they had an opportunity; they also constantly used Kohol to blacken their eyelids, and to make different marks on the face. One of the women of the Fellāta had a little male child, which was carried by turns by the whole Kafflé. Her milk had failed her, and this poor infant had nothing to nourish him but a mixture of cold water and flour, unless I sometimes gave him some cusscussou. He, as well as his mother, was a shade lighter than a mulatto, which is generally the colour of their tribe. Several of the girls carried with them an instrument called Zantoo. It is a long gourd hollowed out, having a hole at each end, and is played by striking one end against the calf of the leg, and occasionally stopping the other by a quick blow of the open hand. It has a very pleasing effect when well played, and the glass armlets, which are sometimes worn to the number of eight or ten on each arm, add to it a pretty tinkling sound. Whenever a party had a little outwalked the Kafflé, and sat down to rest, the Zantoos were set in motion, and were accompanied by their plaintive national airs. The wild music and picturesque appearance of these resting-parties was very pleasing, and I seldom passed one of them without having a lively chorus addressed to me. There is a small bush found on the Desert, called by the slaves Wussawussa, with leaves resembling those of box in form, but tender, and having a very salt taste; these the slaves collected whenever they could, and boiled with their evening meal; and the flavour is not unpleasant. In some of the wadeys were many thorny bushes bearing small black berries, called Dummagh ظماخ or “brains,” which have a very sweet, but at the same time astringent taste, and of which these poor girls always brought me large supplies, in return for my assisting those who were fatigued or thirsty. In fact, Belford and myself, being the only persons who did not beat or ill treat them, became great favourites; and my talents in particular were so highly appreciated, that not a male or female slave tore or wore out their sandal leathers, but they were immediately brought to me to be repaired, as I had always some leather in my pocket for that purpose: I thus became cobbler to the whole Kafflé.