A naturalist in Madagascar: A record of observation, experiences, and impressions made during a period of over fifty years' intimate association with the natives and study of the animal & vegetable life of the islandSibree, James
History
A naturalist in Madagascar: A record of observation, experiences, and impressions made during a period of over fifty years' intimate association with the natives and study of the animal & vegetable life of the island
Sibree, James
Madagascar; Natural history -- Madagascar
At a little before five o’clock we came to a hollow at the end of
the promontory, with a long piece of water dividing it from a steep
abrupt hill, on which the large village of Ambòhipèno is situated.
This place had a clay wall surrounding it, and contained about ninety
houses. The “road” to it is the water just mentioned, about four feet
wide, where the papyrus had been cut away; this being past, the path
was up a steep clay slope. As we got near the village, we could see
a number of people assembled to meet us, and on arriving at the top
had a most pleasing reception. As we cleared the water and began to
ascend, the singers struck up a hymn; they were all seated on one
side of the road, the school-children on the other, while a little
farther on were a crowd of people headed by the elderly men of the
place. One of these, the judge of the district, a pleasant old man,
then received us with the usual speeches, to which I had of course
to reply. After a few minutes’ delay, and promising to come and
preach to them on the following afternoon, we pushed on, for it was
near sunset, and we had still three or four miles to traverse before
reaching our destination.
[Sidenote: A HOSPITABLE RECEPTION]
It was about an hour after sundown before we reached Ampàrafàravòla,
but a bright moon near the full prevented any difficulty in
travelling. The town itself was almost entirely Hova, and consisted
of about ninety houses in a square stockade of palisading, a double
line of which ran all around it; but there were as many more Sihànaka
houses within half-a-mile of the _ròva_, and two or three small
villages at no great distance. On the west side of the town was a
large, well-built, clay chapel, not then finished. Our first look
at it, without any doors or windows, made us doubtful whether we
could use it as a lodging, especially as the evening breeze blew
sharply through the numerous openings; however, as we found there
were temporary doors and shutters of _zozòro_, which filled them
up to some extent, we decided that we had better stay in it. A few
minutes after our arrival, the lieutenant-governor of the district
and his attendants came out of the _ròva_ to meet us; and then, of
course, came loyal inquiries and polite speeches and, after a little
time, beef, rice and poultry, etc. We were glad at last to get some
tea, but we found the chapel very windy and letting in far too many
mosquitoes to be pleasant, so we pitched the tent at the far end of
the building as a sleeping apartment, and by dexterous management Mr
Pillans and I stole a march on our bloodthirsty little tormentors,
and managed to get a good night’s rest; while the doctor secured the
same under the protection of his mosquito net.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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