A naturalist in Madagascar: A record of observation, experiences, and impressions made during a period of over fifty years' intimate association with the natives and study of the animal & vegetable life of the islandSibree, James
History
A naturalist in Madagascar: A record of observation, experiences, and impressions made during a period of over fifty years' intimate association with the natives and study of the animal & vegetable life of the island
Sibree, James
Madagascar; Natural history -- Madagascar
The afternoon wore on; the doctor took photographs of the opposite
shore; Mr Pillans and I took bearings for the map, and collected
shells; and at last, after waiting two hours, we reluctantly came
to the conclusion that we must go back to the village in the swamp,
which we accordingly did. However, we were not so uncomfortable as we
had feared, nor did we take any harm from the damp conditions. The
head people came to present beef, etc., but I fear I answered them
rather curtly, for we saw plainly it was never intended to let us get
over the lake until the following day; but, with the usual native
unwillingness to speak out plainly, they would not say so to begin
with. In the book which Dr Mullens wrote on his return to England he
says of this afternoon’s experiences: “I am afraid that the general
depression seriously interfered with the reply of our friend, Mr
Sibree. The dignity and fulness with which he usually dwelt upon the
affairs of the kingdom and the health of the authorities, and the
flowery eloquence with which he would describe the purpose of our
visit, entirely failed him here. His reply was brief and guarded, and
the two-pounder gun he passed over in total silence.”
[Sidenote: A DEEP LAKE]
On Wednesday morning we left Ambòhitsàra at half-past six, so as to
cross the lake as soon after sunrise as possible, as this is always
the calmest time of the day in Madagascar waters. We found about a
dozen large canoes waiting for us; several of these were from thirty
to forty feet long, and three to four feet beam, hollowed out of
a single tree. We all embarked and got off soon after half-past
seven, but the wind had already risen somewhat, and there was quite
a swell on the water. But the sail across was most delightful. As
we proceeded, the northern shores opened up, showing two deep bays
stretching far away between the hills, and an island, where the
Sihànaka made their last stand in resisting Hova domination. From
that time it has not been allowed to be inhabited, but is only used
for planting vegetables. We had only two paddlers, one at the head,
and the other at the stern of the canoe, and so were an hour and
ten minutes in crossing. We made an attempt to ascertain the depth
of the lake with an old knife as a sinker, and a piece of string
as a line, while the doctor, in true scientific fashion, “hove the
lead.” I regret to say that no accurate information was obtained,
for the sounding line was again and again thrown with the report,
“no bottom.” But our short line was no doubt the reason of our
ill-success. The lake is probably deep at its northern end, and it
is certainly shallow at its southern extremity, gradually changing
into marsh. Some of my missionary friends, who subsequently lived in
Antsihànaka, have described voyages across the southern end of the
Alaotra, where, amongst the dense growth of papyrus, rush, and tall
grasses, the only practicable paths for a canoe are dark passages,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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