A New Voyage Round the World, in the years 1823, 24, 25, and 26, Vol. 2Kotzebue, Otto von
History
A New Voyage Round the World, in the years 1823, 24, 25, and 26, Vol. 2
Kotzebue, Otto von
Discoveries in geography; Predpriiatie (Ship); Voyages around the world; Zoology
On the 29th we anchored at St. Helena, before the little town of St.
James, the whole crew being cheerful and healthy; but our spirits were
soon damped by the news of the death of the Emperor Alexander, which we
now received. I must here not omit to express my most cordial thanks to
the Governor of St. Helena, for his very kind reception of myself and
companions, and for his constant endeavours to make our stay on the
island agreeable; he gave dinners and balls for our entertainment, and
was always ready to comply with our wishes; hence he granted us what it
is usually difficult to obtain--permission to visit the celebrated
estate of Longwood, where Napoleon closed his splendid career, in
powerless and desolate loneliness. We rode thither one fine morning, on
horseback. The little town of St. James lies in a ravine between two
high, steep, barren lava-rocks; its pleasant situation and cheerful
aspect presenting a striking contrast with the gloom of its immediate
environs. By a serpentine road cut through the rock, we climbed an
ascent, by nature inaccessible; this path, in some parts not three
fathoms in breadth, is bounded on one side by the perpendicular rock,
and on the other overlooks an abrupt precipice, from which however it is
defended by a strong stone balustrade, so that however fearful in
appearance, its only real danger lies in an accident which sometimes
happens, that large fragments detach themselves from the superincumbent
rock, and roll down the precipice, carrying before them every thing that
might obstruct their passage to the bottom.
Having with some difficulty reached the highest ground on the island, we
found the tropical heat changed into a refreshing coolness, and enjoyed
an extensive prospect over the island, which presented a totally
different aspect from that under which it is viewed by passing vessels.
The sailor sees only high, black, jagged, and desolate rocks, rising
perpendicularly from the sea, and every where washed by a tremendous
surf, prohibiting all attempts to land except at the single point of St.
James: his eye vainly seeks round the adamant wall, the relief of one
sprig of green; not a trace of vegetation appears, and Nature herself
seems to have destined the spot for a gloomy and infrangible prison.
From these heights, on the contrary, the picturesque and smiling
landscape of the interior forms the most striking contrast to its
external sternness, and suggests the idea of a gifted mind, compelled by
painful experience to shroud its charms under a forbidding veil of
coldness and reserve.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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