"But, my dear Emily, I have just awoke to the consciousness—a little
late in the day, you will say—that you do not in the least understand
this long tirade against the bayaderes of MM. de Morin, Périères and
Delange. You are asking, in astonishment, where I am. You are on the
verge of the belief that I am on my way to Calcutta, instead of being
bound for the centre of Africa. A thousand pardons—I had let my pen
and my ever vivid imagination run on, and had forgotten that when I
left you last I was at Cairo.
"I must tell you, then, that I am steaming along the Red Sea, but
please excuse my entering in detail into the reason why this route
has been chosen. The words, Red Sea, or Arabian gulf, if you prefer
it, will, however, explain how it happens that I mention Africa and
Asia indiscriminately. In reality, I am on neutral ground,
equidistant from the two continents. If I stretch out my arm to the
left towards the East, I am in Arabia; if to the right towards the
West, I am in Nubia. Now you see the position; a very convenient one,
is it not?
"At this moment I am on the left, that is to say on the Asiatic side,
for our steamer has just called in at Djiddah, which may be regarded
as the port of Mecca, that famous resort of pilgrims, whither every
true follower of the Prophet should betake himself at least once in
his life. Our bales and boxes have been sent on by the Nile to
Khartoum; they will not arrive until after us, but quite soon enough,
because if we are on the spot, we shall avoid a considerable expense
in Customs charges. The Egyptians are adepts in the art of living at
the expense of travellers; and, not content with making them pay duty
at Suez, levy other contributions on entering and leaving Souakim.
"Our _personnel_ is as yet not very numerous, and consequently gives
us no trouble. It is composed of three female Nubians and two male
Arabs, who were very strongly recommended to us, and whom we have
engaged as attendants and interpreters. These men are named Omar and
Ali, besides a string of other appellations which I suppress, purely
out of consideration for you. At Souakim we shall secure an escort
and a supply of bearers for the indispensable part of our baggage.
Not until we reach Khartoum, if we get so far into the interior of
Africa, shall we form our caravan.
"The trip along the Red Sea is most interesting. On the morning
following our departure from Suez, in magnificent weather, we saw the
Sinai ranges and the Holy Mountain standing out in bold and clear
relief. We passed, without stopping, by the little town of Tûr,
inhabited by the Copts, those descendants of the primitive denizens
of Egypt, and, twenty-four hours afterwards, we touched at Cosseir,
on the western shore of the gulf.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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