A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864Livingstone, David
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A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi and Its Tributaries: And of the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, 1858-1864
Livingstone, David
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, Central -- Discovery and exploration
As we sailed along, we disturbed many white-breasted cormorants; we had
seen the same species fishing between the cataracts. Here, with many
other wild-fowls, they find subsistence on the smooth water by night, and
sit sleepily on trees and in the reeds by day. Many hippopotami were
seen in the river, and one of them stretched its wide jaws, as if to
swallow the whole stern of the boat, close to Dr. Kirk's back; the animal
was so near that, in opening its mouth, it lashed a quantity of water on
to the stern-sheets, but did no damage. To avoid large marauding parties
of Ajawa, on the left bank of the Shire, we continued on the right, or
western side, with our land party, along the shore of the small lake
Pamalombe. This lakelet is ten or twelve miles in length, and five or
six broad. It is nearly surrounded by a broad belt of papyrus, so dense
that we could scarcely find an opening to the shore. The plants, ten or
twelve feet high, grew so closely together that air was excluded, and so
much sulphuretted hydrogen gas evolved that by one night's exposure the
bottom of the boat was blackened. Myriads of mosquitoes showed, as
probably they always do, the presence of malaria.
We hastened from this sickly spot, trying to take the attentions of the
mosquitoes as hints to seek more pleasant quarters on the healthy shores
of Lake Nyassa; and when we sailed into it, on the 2nd September, we felt
refreshed by the greater coolness of the air off this large body of
water. The depth was the first point of interest. This is indicated by
the colour of the water, which, on a belt along the shore, varying from a
quarter to half a mile in breadth, is light green, and this is met by the
deep blue or indigo tint of the Indian Ocean, which is the colour of the
great body of Nyassa. We found the Upper Shire from nine to fifteen feet
in depth; but skirting the western side of the lake about a mile from the
shore the water deepened from nine to fifteen fathoms; then, as we
rounded the grand mountainous promontory, which we named Cape Maclear,
after our excellent friend the Astronomer Royal at the Cape of Good Hope,
we could get no bottom with our lead-line of thirty-five fathoms. We
pulled along the western shore, which was a succession of bays, and found
that where the bottom was sandy near the beach, and to a mile out, the
depth varied from six to fourteen fathoms. In a rocky bay about latitude
11 degrees 40 minutes we had soundings at 100 fathoms, though outside the
same bay we found none with a fishing-line of 116 fathoms; but this cast
was unsatisfactory, as the line broke in coming up. According to our
present knowledge, a ship could anchor only near the shore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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