A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
The alcoholic perfumes, also called "_Extraits d'Odeurs_," are divided
into flower-odors, "_Extraits aux fleurs_," and into compound odors,
"_Bouquets_." The extracts of French flower pomades form the foundation
of all _Extraits d'Odeurs_, all other additions serving the purpose of
rendering these odors more pronounced and durable. Hence the art of the
perfumer consist in attaining this object as perfectly as possible by
the correct composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal. If,
for instance, the flower-odor _jasmine_ is to be prepared, it would not
be sufficient to simply use the alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for
the purpose, since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the
air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not understand how
to prevent it. To prevent the rapid volatilization of the scent, to
retain it or to fix it, extracts of various perfume-materials, known as
tinctures or extracts are used.
The method of preparing the flower-pomades in France has already been
described on p. 58 _et seq._ It need here only be added that, according
to their quality, these pomades are designated by different numbers
by the French manufacturers. There are three qualities, which by some
manufacturers are designated as No. 6, No. 18, and No. 30; and by
others as No. 12, No. 24 and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18
and No. 24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other. Pomades
No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the preparation of extracts, they
containing but little actual extract of flowers, and are generally
mixtures touched up with volatile oils. They are almost exclusively
used for hair pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or No.
24 is the quality generally employed by the perfumer for alcoholic
extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the strongest, and, hence, most expensive
flower-pomade, and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers
for the finest qualities of _Extraits d'Odeurs_.
When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower pomades do not
possess the fine odor of the respective flowers, the full aroma being
developed only after about six months. The tin-canisters containing
them should be provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry
cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five years, with the
exception of jasmine and tuberose, which keep only for about two years.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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