A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Owing to the content of glycerin, which, as well known, is
non-volatile, the consumption of this brilliantine is very economical,
while it is made very agreeable by the fine French flower perfumes.
If it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost, pure alcohol
may be substituted for the pomade extract and any perfumed hair oil for
the French _huile antique_.
_Brilliantine No. 2._--For brilliantine of quality II, the glasses are
first filled half full with perfumed hair oil and then filled up with
non-perfumed alcohol slightly colored with sanders-wood tincture or
turmeric tincture. Glycerin is not used, and, hence, in this case the
oil will be on the bottom and the alcohol, being lighter, on top.
This brilliantine, containing no glycerin, is not so economical as the
preceding. It evaporates quite rapidly and sometimes makes the hair
hard, especially that of persons having naturally dry hair. However,
this second quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy
the demands of his customers as much as possible.
_Brilliantine No. 3._--Castor oil 10 lbs., pure alcohol 5 lbs.,
Portugal oil 7 ozs., clove oil 1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 1 oz.,
cassia oil 1 oz., citronella oil 11 drachms.
Mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask, then add the volatile
oils and shake vigorously. If the castor oil is pure and genuine, it
forms an intimate mixture with the alcohol; if, on the other hand,
traces of oil appear on the surface of the fluid, the castor oil is
adulterated with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose.
The castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and, under no
conditions, rancid.
If this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish color, the
object may be attained by the addition of sanders-wood tincture or
turmeric tincture.
That this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown by its
composition. It has the further disadvantage that it plasters the
hair, especially when the castor oil becomes old. However, there are
consumers with whom this quality is quite popular.
The following formulas for brilliantine are taken from various
sources:--
I. Veal fat 4 ozs., spermaceti 2 ozs., castor oil 12 ozs., oil of
bitter almonds 1 drop, oil of cloves 10 drops, oil of bergamot 20
drops. Melt together the first three ingredients, and add the perfumes
when nearly cold.
II. Almond oil 2½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., oil of lemon 3 ozs. Melt
the spermaceti at a low temperature; add the oil and heat until all
flakes disappear. Let the jars into which it is to be poured be warm,
and then cool as slowly as possible to insure good crystals.
The following, although somewhat peculiar, is offered as a good
brilliantine:--
III. Honey 1 fluid oz., glycerin and Cologne water each ½ fluid oz.,
alcohol 2 fluid ozs. Mix.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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