A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
To test the value of oil of cloves, introduce, according to Stohman,
into a graduated glass cylinder 10 volumes ether, 10 oil of cloves,
and 30 of a 10-per cent. soda solution. After vigorous shaking, the
eugenol dissolves; the increase in volume of the aqueous fluid is
then proportional to the quantity of eugenol present. For more exact
determinations, dissolve a weighed quantity of oil, repeatedly shake
the aqueous fluid with ether to remove the terpene, then decompose
the eugenol-sodium with dilute sulphuric acid, dissolve the separated
eugenol in ether and weigh after evaporating the ethereal fluid. Good
oil of cloves does not contain less than 80 per cent. of eugenol, and
frequently 90 per cent. or more.
Oil of cloves is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil and cedar oil.
Such adulteration is recognized by the oil not forming a clear solution
in every proportion with alcohol, as is the case with pure oil of
cloves.
Oil of cloves is much used for perfuming purposes.
_Eucalyptus oil_ (_oleum eucalypti_) is obtained from the leaves
of various trees of the eucalyptus family. According to Merk two
kinds of oil must be strictly kept apart: _oleum eucalypti_ from the
leaves of _eucalyptus globulus_ and _oleum eucalypti australe_, the
former being used in medicine, and the latter, which is considerably
cheaper, chiefly for perfuming purposes. However, Piesse's opinion that
eucalyptus oil, as far as its odor is concerned, does not deserve to be
classed among perfumes is undoubtedly correct. It has an odor between
that of oil of turpentine and cajeput oil, and as long as perfumery is
the art of sweet odors, such oil cannot be designated a perfume.
When not rectified, eucalyptus oil is mostly yellowish or bluish. In a
rectified state it is colorless, clear, limpid, lighter than water, of
a strong odor, and acrid taste. The oil from _eucalyptus globulus_ has
a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.925, and dissolves in every proportion
in 90 per cent. alcohol. It is optically inactive or turns the plane of
polarization slightly to the right. On standing with sodium it acquires
a yellowish coloration, and does not detonate with iodine. The oil from
_eucalyptus australe_ has a specific gravity of 0.86 to 0.87, and is
but sparingly soluble in 90 per cent. alcohol, so that even a solution
prepared in the proportion of 1:15 is turbid. It turns the plane of
polarization strongly to the left; acquires, on standing with sodium, a
red coloration, and detonates with iodine.
Eucalyptus oil consists of eucalyptol and eucalyptene, and perhaps
other hydrocarbons. The content of the first, on which depends the
medicinal value of the oil, varies very much in the oils from the
different species of eucalyptus, the oil from some species, it is said,
containing no eucalyptol whatever.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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