A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_French and African geranium oils_ (_oleum geranii_) are obtained
by distillation with water from the leaves of various species of
pelargonium. Many different kinds of this oil are found in commerce.
The finest and most expensive are the Spanish and French geranium
oils, so-called _rosé_, which are distinguished by their fine odor,
closely resembling that of rose oil. They are derived from _Pelargonium
radula_, and are either yellowish, brownish, or pale green, the
brownish oils being preferred. It congeals at 60.8° F. and turns the
plane of polarization to the right. Another good geranium oil is
the African, which is chiefly prepared in Algiers from _Pelargonium
roseum_, _Wildenow_, and _P. odoratissimum, Aiton_. It closely
resembles the French oil, but turns the plane of polarization to the
left.
French geranium oil is said to be frequently adulterated with fat or
copaiba oil; but geranium oil being soluble in 70 per cent. alcohol,
such adulterations are readily detected. Add to 5 cubic centimeters of
70 per cent. alcohol (specific gravity 0.890) at 59° to 62.5° F., 10
drops of the oil, and shake. If a clear solution results the oil is
very likely unadulterated.
The so-called Turkish geranium oil is frequently found mixed with
cocoanut oil. To detect this, place the oil in a test-tube in ice or a
cold mixture for several hours, whereby the cocoanut oil separates as
a white substance. Adulterations of upward to 20 per cent. are said to
frequently occur.
Reliable tests to detect an adulteration of the better qualities of
geranium oil with those of a lower grade do not exist, the odor being
the only guide.
_Jasmine oil_ or _oil of jessamine_, from the flowers of _Jasminium
officinale, L._, and _J. grandiflorum_.--The oil is exclusively
obtained by the absorption process, and is the most prized by the
perfumer. It is, however, exceedingly rare on account of the enormous
cost of its production. The extract of jasmine, the "essence de
jasmine" of the French manufactories, is a solution of the oil, as
obtained by extraction with lard or beef suet, in strong spirit of
wine. The odor of jasmine oil is so peculiar that it is without
comparison, and as such cannot be imitated.
_Juniper oil_ (_oleum juniperi_) is obtained by distillation from the
fruits of _Juniperus communis, L._, or juniper. The berries used for
the purpose should be fully grown and fresh and bruised before being
placed in the still. Unripe berries yield a smaller quantity and an oil
of somewhat different properties than ripe berries. The oil obtained by
distillation with steam is colorless and that by ordinary distillation
yellowish, the former having a specific gravity of 0.840 to 0.860
and the latter of 0.850 to 0.900. It consists mainly of terpenes. By
standing, a stearoptene is separated, which crystallizes in feathery
needles from hot spirit of wine. The odor and taste of juniper oil
remind one at the same time of juniper berries and oil of turpentine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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