A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
From _Origanum vulgare, L._, the ordinary marjoram oil (_oleum origani
vulgaris_) is obtained. It is yellowish or reddish, limpid, of specific
gravity 0.90 to 0.95, and has a camphor-like odor.
_Spanish marjoram_ (_oleum origani cretici_) is obtained by
distillation from the flowering plants of several varieties of marjoram
(_Or. creticum_, _Or. hirtum_, _Or. smyrnæum_). It is brought into
commerce from Trieste, Smyrna, Salonica, and other Mediterranean
seaports. The oil exported from France appears to be derived from
another variety of marjoram; at least it shows a different behavior
and approaches more the ordinary marjoram oil. The genuine oil is
thickly-fluid, generally yellow-brown; of specific gravity O.95 to
O.97; has a strong, aromatic odor, and produces upon the tongue a sharp
continued burning. It dissolves in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol.
It is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil, the presence of which can
be recognized by the oil dissolving with greater difficulty.
The marjoram oils are but little used for perfuming purposes.
_Mignonette oil_ (_oleum résédæ_). The well-known mignonette, _Réséda
odoratissima_, yields a thick yellowish oil, either by maceration and
absorption, or by extraction with ether or petroleum-ether. It has a
penetrating, disagreeable odor, which can only be rendered agreeable by
greatly diluting the oil. In gathering the flowers care must be had not
to mix them with leaves, as this spoils the odor of the oil.
_Myrrh oil_ (_oleum myrthæ_) is obtained from the leaves of _Myrtus
communis, L._ It is yellowish, dextrorotatory, of specific gravity
0.910 at 60.8° F., and commences to boil at 320° F. As its principal
constituents, Jahns has established a terpene (C_{10}H_{16}), boiling
at from 316.4° to 320° F., and turning the plane of polarization
to the right, and cineol (C_{10}H_{16}O), which boils at 348.8° F.
Besides these principal constituents there seems to be present a very
small quantity of a camphor, corresponding very likely to the formula
C_{10}H_{16}O. Myrtol, which was formerly supposed to exist in myrtle
oil, has been found to be a mixture of the dextrorotatory terpene and
of cineol.
_Nutmeg oils._--From mace, the fresh aril of the nutmeg (_Myristica
fragrans, Houtt_, natural order _Myristicaceæ_), _mace oil_ (_oleum
macidis_), is obtained by distillation. It is straw-yellow or
yellowish, later on yellow-reddish, clear, somewhat thickly-fluid,
of a strong odor resembling that of mace, and a taste at first mild,
but later on pungent and aromatic. It mixes clear in every proportion
with absolute alcohol, but of 90 per cent. alcohol, 5 to 6 volumes are
required for a clear solution. The specific gravity of the oil varies
from 0.87 to 0.92. With iodine it detonates, vapors being emitted. The
oil obtained from dried mace has a less agreeable odor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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