A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
The genuineness of rose oil is generally judged by its odor, its
capacity of congealing, and the manner of its crystallization. The
odor is by all means the most reliable criterion, but requires
much experience, and especially reliable pure standard samples for
comparison. The capacity of congealing at certain conditions of
temperature, is, to be sure, also a requirement of genuine rose oil,
but, as previously mentioned, this property varies very much, and is
subject to different influences, so that a fixed standard at which pure
rose oil must congeal cannot be established. Attention must, however,
be called to the fact that the quality of a rose oil does by no means
rise with its greater capacity to congeal, since only the liquid
oxygenated portion possesses odor.
Schimmel & Co. bring at present into commerce a liquid rose oil freed
from stearoptene which can be highly recommended for finer alcoholic
perfumes. It remains fluid at 32° F., but in a cold mixture congeals to
a gelatinous mass, and hence is not absolutely free from stearoptene.
It has an extremely fine and powerful odor, and when dissolved in
alcohol does not give the disagreeable crystalline separations of the
ordinary rose oil, which produce a disturbing effect, especially in the
preparation of extracts.
For the insulation and determination of the stearoptene in rose oil,
Schimmel & Co. proceed as follows: Heat 50 grammes of oil together
with 500 grammes of 75 per cent. alcohol to from 158° to 176° F. In
cooling, the stearoptene separates nearly quantitatively. Separate it
from the fluid, treat it again in the same manner with 200 grammes of
75 per cent. alcohol, and repeat the operation until the stearoptene is
entirely free from odor. Two treatments of the crude stearoptene are
generally sufficient. In this manner Schimmel & Co. obtained from 1887
German rose oil 32½ per cent. stearoptene, from 1888 German rose oil 34
per cent., from 1887 Turkish rose oil 12 to 13 per cent., and from 1888
Turkish rose oil 14 per cent.
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