After some rice and tea and an hour's rest--including, I doubt not, a
smoke of the opium pipe--they were a little refreshed, and I proposed
moving on, that we might get to Chang-gan before the sun became too
powerful. My servant, however, had a friend in the city, and he desired
to spend the day there, and to go on next morning. But to this I
objected, wishing to reach Hai-ning that night if possible. . . . We
therefore set off, entered the North Gate, and had passed through about
a third of the city, when the coolies stopped to rest, and said they
should be unable to carry the burden on to Chang-gan. Finally, they
agreed to take it to the South Gate, where they were to be paid in
proportion to the distance they had carried it; and the servant
undertook to call other coolies and come along with them.
I walked on before as in the first instance, and the distance being only
about four miles, soon reached Chang-gan, and waited their arrival,
meanwhile engaging coolies for the rest of the journey to Hai-ning.
Having waited a long time, I began to wonder at the delay; and at length
it became too late to finish the journey to Hai-ning that night. I felt
somewhat annoyed; and but that my feet were blistered, and the afternoon
very hot, I should have gone back to meet them and urge them on. At last
I concluded that my servant must have gone to his friend's, and would
not appear until evening. But evening came, and still there was no sign
of them.
Feeling very uneasy, I began diligently to inquire whether they had been
seen. At last a man responded, "Are you a guest from Shih-mun-wan?" I
answered in the affirmative. "Are you going to Hai-ning?" "That is my
destination." "Then your things have gone on before you; for I was
sitting in a tea-shop when a coolie came in, took a cup of tea, and set
off for Hai-ning in a great hurry, saying that the bamboo box and bed he
carried, which were just such as you describe yours to have been, were
from Shih-mun-wan, and he had to take them to Hai-ning to-night, where
he was to be paid at the rate of ten cash a pound." From this I
concluded that my goods were on before me; but it was impossible to
follow them at once, for I was too tired to walk, and it was already
dark.
Under these circumstances all I could do was to seek a lodging for the
night; and no easy task I found it. After raising my heart to GOD to ask
His aid, I walked through to the farther end of the town, where I
thought the tidings of a foreigner's being in the place might not have
spread, and looked out for an inn. I soon came to one, and went in,
hoping that I might pass unquestioned, as it was already dark. Asking
the bill of fare, I was told that cold rice--which proved to be more
than "rather burnt"--and snakes, fried in lamp-oil, were all that could
be had. Not wishing any question to be raised as to my nationality, I
was compelled to order some, and tried to make a meal, but with little
success.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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