Walses and cotillons succeeded alternately, for the rest of the evening. About two o’clock in the morning, supper was announced. The table, not being large enough to afford seats for all the company, was solely occupied by the ladies. The entertainment consisted of soups, hot dishes, _légumes_, fruit, and pastry; after which, as a remove, two large plates, one of turbot, and one of salmon, made their appearance. These, to an english eye, seemed very singular; but I hear, all good french suppers conclude with fish. After supper, the ball recommenced, and continued till six in the morning. On summing up the occurrences of the evening, I remarked, that, though the women were handsome, the company elegant in their dress, and genteel in their manner; though the music was admirable, and the refreshments plentiful and good; yet there was something wanting; I mean that gaiety of heart, and that flow of spirits, which, according to all accounts, the french formerly possessed. The ladies danced to perfection; but they seemed to do so rather for triumph than amusement; and any stranger, coming suddenly into the room, would have supposed, that he saw before him the _élèves_ of the opera house, not the daughters of the proud _noblesse_. Dancing is, indeed, more a science than an entertainment, at Paris; and while those who were engaged seemed to study every step, and to make all their motions by rule, the by-standers looked on, and criticised with the same professional attention. There was little or no conversation: the loud laugh, involuntary tribute of joy, was not heard; nor the innocent prattle of unsuspecting, happy youth. I know not whether this total change of character is to be attributed to the heavy misfortunes which the higher classes have experienced, or to some other cause; but certainly nothing is more obsolete than french vivacity. I have now passed more than three months in Paris; and have not yet seen among its inhabitants[48], one instance of unbounded mirth. When it happens to me to be in english, american, or other foreign companies, I am always surprised at the fun and jollity of the persons around me. Before I conclude my letter, I ought, perhaps, to mention, that I saw, at this party, the celebrated Kosciusco, whose heroic exertions in the cause of polish liberty have rendered him so justly celebrated. I am happy to say, that he is perfectly recovered from his wound, and that he has no longer any marks of lameness. He is not now in the vigour or the bloom of youth; but his eye is finely expressive. I am sure, Lavater, in seeing it, would have said, “That eye is the eye of a poet, a genius, or a patriot.” I had not the pleasure of being introduced to him, and can therefore only speak to you of his exterior. I am, &c. LETTER XVII.