A boat, nearer the _Magicienne_ than the dockyard, was waiting for me. Back in my cabin, I felt how much I needed rest and quiet. [Sidenote: April 21.] Sailed with _Crocodile_, but, to keep company with our senior while off the wind, we had to lower topsails on the cap. [Sidenote: April 24.] We arrived at Madras Roads. Madras is an open roadstead, safe only during the westerly monsoon. Surf always breaking on the beach. Communication with the shore only by native boats, called _masúlas_. These curious boats are built of mango-wood, caulked with straw and sewn together with cocoanut fibre. Their length is about thirty feet, by ten broad, with a depth of seven or eight feet. They are propelled by oars with round, flat ends. The crew consists of a dozen natives and a _tindal_, who steers, and leads the song, which, discordant though it is, is a help in the movement of the boat; the time depends on the rate of the surf. Letters, called _chits_, are conveyed by naked natives in catamarans--three misshapen logs lashed together by _rôtans_, and propelled through, not over, the waves. Sharks, too, were in close attendance--apparently for company only. The changes of monsoon, in May and October, are often accompanied by hurricanes. I always thought the East Indies the pleasantest of stations while governed by the good old John Company. Their liberality was unbounded. Such a thing as an hotel or lodging-house was not to be found. On your landing at either of the Presidencies, coolies were in waiting, and there was almost a fight between the _daibashes_ as to who should get possession of your portmanteau; while yourself was carried off in a palanquin on the shoulders of four dark coolies, who bore you in triumph to their master’s house. Such were our princely merchants. The liberality of John Company exceeded everything. Not only was a commissioned officer’s pay doubled--it was called _batta_--but the Company kept houses furnished at all stations to which a man-of-war could go. Servants, plate, and linen were found. The cooking, too! Such curries as I had never even dreamed of! Tiffin appeared to be the meal of the day, in which the gentler sex joined. Bass’s pale ale, and claret, cooled by saltpetre, were the rival drinks. Perry, Dare and Co. were the Navy agents, who were second to none in hospitality. News had reached Madras of fresh disturbances at Nanning, on the Malay Peninsula. We sailed. [Sidenote: May 14.] Anchored at Nancowry Harbour, one of the Nicobar Group, sailing following day. [Sidenote: May 19.] Arrived at Penang; remained only long enough to take in stores and freight for service. Penang was notorious at this time for fever, which attacked the young men most severely: few under thirty recovered. [Sidenote: June 6.] We anchored off Malacca, some distance from the shore, owing to the shallowness of the water, which caused an unpleasant rolling motion.