The town had an English appearance; many of the signs of public-houses were called after ships that had been at Trafalgar. There was one named “Anchor, Hardy, Anchor.” I had much fun exploring with my Chief many disused places. The hospital was one, which he carefully inspected, but on returning to the open air we found ourselves covered with fleas! Although suffering, I cried with laughter at the agony of my Chief, the cleanest of small men. He roared like a young bull. On turning up the skirts of his frock-coat, at the waist there was a regular girdle of fleas. [Sidenote: April 7.] We next visited Palma Bay. It has a fine town, clean and spacious. It was in want of money. Spaniards had taken refuge in this spot to avoid the heavy contributions levied by most of the military Governors on all persons residing in the provinces, over which they ruled with martial law. [Sidenote: April 13.] The Marquis de Montenegro is now the Captain-General, a fine specimen of the real Spanish grandee, a native of the island. He invited Captain Parker and the officers of the _Rodney_ and _Childers_, and entertained us hospitably at a charming country-house which contained, among many old pictures, an original by Raphael. He had also, in his country-house, statues collected by his brother, who was a Cardinal in Rome. The Marquis de Colonna is also a resident, the war having obliged him to quit valuable property in Valencia. He, too, was attentive to the English. There are also many Spaniards under surveillance who had been banished on suspicion of not being faithful supporters of the existing Government. Among others was Don Calderon, of whom I had heard much. At the age of ninety he was sent from Barcelona, where he was about the oldest resident, surrounded by his family. An old sailor, he had declined his flag rank in order that he might remain quiet and unnoticed. What a sad thing is civil war! In riding excursions we sometimes pulled up at roadside _posadas_. Eggs short, I have frequently seen the women in charge of the poultry pick up a hen, and by a gentle squeeze cause it to drop an egg. [Sidenote: April 18.] Accompanied _Rodney_ to Barcelona. [Sidenote: June 2.] I was awakened in the middle of the night by Lord Ranelagh, who had been fighting with the Carlists. He made his escape when our marines captured the Carlist lines at Uremea. We had been friends for years, and I had now to congratulate him on being my prisoner. I last left him in the 7th Fusiliers, at Malta. After breakfast I went to Mina, whom I found confined to his room; but Doña Mina, a charming English lady, said he would see _me_. He was in bed. “I know what you are come about,” was his greeting. “You have Lord Ranelagh on board; take care of him. If he lands in Spain, I will have him shot.” [Sidenote: June 3.] At 4 A.M. weighed and made sail, calling at Tarragona.