A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 2 (of 3)Keppel, Henry, Sir
History
A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 2 (of 3)
Keppel, Henry, Sir
Admirals -- Great Britain -- Biography; Great Britain. Royal Navy
They “calculate” and they “guess,” and have a fair notion of the value
of a dollar, and are smart fellows at a bargain; they occasionally deal
a little in the marvellous sea-serpent line, but they are amusing, with
one exception, which will appear hereafter.
Batavia deserves a great deal more notice than we had time to bestow
upon it, being the capital of all the Dutch possessions in the Far
East, with a mixed population, chiefly Javanese, of about 120,000.
Like Manila, the city is approached from seaward by a long straight
canal, running between two massive walls; and, as there is a strong
current generally setting out, the easiest way to stem it is to land
the crew and track the boat.
The houses near the sea, although large and handsome buildings, are
used for business purposes only. The situation is on a swampy flat, and
at certain times unhealthy.
The appearance of a British man-of-war is so uncommon, that the
_Mæander_ excited considerable speculation; but when we had stated our
destination, and that our chief object was to pay our respects to His
Serene Highness, Duke Bernard of Saxe-Weimar, the explanation seemed to
be satisfactory.
I had met His Serene Highness last year at Madeira.
We were entertained at a grand dinner given by the Duke of Saxe-Weimar,
General and Commander-in-Chief, whose example was followed by several
of the heads of departments. Dinners and balls followed in rapid
succession.
The Batavia races took place while we were there, most of the prizes
being carried off by horses of English breed. The enterprising members
of this Turf Club gave a ball and supper, and made their appearance in
scarlet coats.
Even during this short stay in the roads, some of those whose hammocks
were in the fore-part of the ship, and got the first of the land
breeze, did not escape the fatal effects of malaria.
[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
Sailed 16th. Kept along the Java Coast.
The fishing-boats, or “flying canoes of Java,” as they are not inaptly
styled, were objects of surprise and admiration. They are long, with
just beam enough to enable a man to sit between the gunwales.
Passing Maduira and Java, we came abreast of the Island of Bali,
the only island in the Archipelago where the two great forms in the
Hindoo religion, the Brahminical (the original) and the Bhuddist (the
reformed), exist together, undisturbed.
Bali has a remarkably high peak; and looks like a mountain sloping out
into extensive fertile and rich plains, producing two crops a year;
and as we passed along we saw abundance of cattle, fruit-trees, and
vegetables.
[Sidenote: Nov. 5.]
It would be superfluous for me to attempt to describe all the beautiful
islands we passed.
Beyond the influence of Dutch protection, no more fishing canoes
enlivened the scene; no smoke rose from the numerous inlets along the
coasts to indicate the abodes of human beings. In the dense green
vegetation of the jungle, death-like stillness reigned supreme.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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